Home Anthropology A Jain Sadhu’s Pilgrimage to Sindh (Part-XV)

A Jain Sadhu’s Pilgrimage to Sindh (Part-XV)

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A Jain Sadhu’s Pilgrimage to Sindh (Part-XV)
Cover page of Gujarati book

I found the people of Sindh very naive. They have a lot of simplicity; they are friendly and devout

[Editor’s Note: This is Part 15 (Hyderabad to Karachi) of a series of articles based on a pre-partition book named “મારી સિંધ યાત્રા” (“منهنجي سنڌ جو سفر”) in Gujarati authored by Jain sadhu Shri Vidyavijayji, narrating his experiences of travel and stay in Karachi for about 2 and a half years between 1937 and 1939. It would be advisable to click on the Introductory Article and read it for a better understanding of the series. – Nasir Aijaz, Editor Sindh Courier]

Vimal Shah, Mumbai

Hyderabad to Karachi

After departing from Marwad, our group reached Hyderabad facing many hurdles and difficulties. We thought as we march towards Karachi, our difficulties would start diminishing, but that started proving wrong. By the time we reached Hyderabad, the temperatures had risen a lot, I have already mentioned this before. Obviously, the nuisance of snakes rises with temperatures. We thought we would not have to pass through many difficulties since we had to walk along the railway line. But the railway line from Hyderabad to Karachi was like hell. The stations were already about eight to ten miles apart but since some stations in-betweens were cancelled, the distance between the stations had risen to twenty miles. And the buildings of those cancelled stations were like cemeteries of the Baba Adam era. It used to take hours to clean the space required for just two people to be able to sit. It was dangerous to camp with about twenty-five to thirty people at such stations. The walls and the roofs were ready to fall anytime without notice! On top of that, you see huge orifices all around the place.

Snakes and Scorpions

Camping at such places was also like troubling the poor snakes and scorpions who were living in their orifices away from the habitation, fearing the humans. It was also like disturbing the scorpions living peacefully in a trance under the heaps of dust or layers of stones or holes in the walls.

Good Villages

The travel from Hyderabad to Karachi was more difficult and dangerous than the deserts of Marwad. We came across a few good villages too on our way. We found the stations like Jhampir, Jung Shahi, and Dabechi with better habitation and resources. Only after travelling thirty-five miles from Hyderabad, we found Jhampir like a proper village. People say that water is found by digging only about two to four arms-length. This place is known for its weather as well. We could see trees only here during our travel of about thirty-five miles.

The travel from Hyderabad to Karachi was more difficult and dangerous than the deserts of Marwad

Jethalal Bhai, a Gujarati gentleman from Karachi owns a factory in Jung Shahi. Rewashankar bhai Jain is its manager. Both these are good devout, humble, and curious gentlemen. They hosted us for four days and treated us very well. Many other gentlemen had come here from Karachi.

The Joy of the Volunteers

Different teams of volunteers used to take turns escorting us from Marwad to Mirpurkhas.    The responsibility of escorting us from Mirpurkhas to Hala and from Hala to Hyderabad was taken by the gentlemen from Hala. While the route from Hyderabad to Karachi was more difficult, the team of volunteers who escorted us was more skilful, humorous, courageous, and robust in facing the difficulties. The prime people in the young team were Bhai Vikamchand, Bhai Talakshi (ado), Bhai Ajramar Doshi, Bhai Bhailal, Bhai Kantilal, and Bhai Ramanlal. It was a homogeneous team with good spirits and devotion. They used to create a cheerful and conducive environment even in times of difficulty.

We were resting at a place in a Jungle and waiting for the trailing people. The group went on growing as people were arriving one after the other. It was a dire Jungle, with peace prevailing around. Ajaramar Doshi started singing a song in his sweet and melodious voice. This unexpected song was a true refresher for the entire group, and many started demanding ‘once more’, ‘once more’. Thus, we were travelling cheerfully even in such difficult territory.

It deserves a mention that the railway guard Maganlal Bhai extended his help to our group from time to time during the travel from Hyderabad to Karachi.

Months had passed by in travelling constantly. Now everyone desired to reach the destination – Karachi as early as possible. On the other hand, the Jain, and others of Karachi eager to take darshan of their Guru and listen to his sermons were also losing their patience. Our group used to think day and night – when will we reach Karachi? And the people of Karachi were also likewise thinking – when will the Sadhus reach Karachi?

An Incident in the meantime

Some gentlemen who came from Karachi informed that ‘It is likely that two to four thousand people may gather when we reach Malir. And if that happens, the Karachi Sangh should extend appropriate hospitality to them.’

The Message to Shri Sangh

We found this strange. Malir is fifteen miles from Karachi. If two to four thousand people come there, how much will they spend on their rail and motor bus travel? And on top of that Shri Sangh needs to spend on their hospitality. We were supposed to go to Karachi anyways. Can’t they wait for just two more days for the Darshan and listen to sermons? Of their anxiousness to meet two days earlier, thousands of rupees get wasted from the households of the community. We did not find this appropriate. To avoid the gathering of people at Malir at any cost, I sent a letter as stated below to the Secretary of the Sangh and recommended he publicize the letter.

Devoutness can be helpful only if it is within limits

I have come to know that – people may come from Karachi to Malir in large numbers for taking Darshan. While it is a sign of your love and devotion, it would cost a lot to the Karachi Sangh. Even if the cost is borne by individuals, eventually it is a burden on the community. Without any doubt, there’s no control over such costs where devotion is involved. But ultimately it is a burden on the community. Therefore, I wish that the people of Karachi do not spend on this. So please communicate my wish to all the households of the Mandirmargi and Sthanakwasi both communities. And avoid any such program until we enter the city.

Hindus of Sindh are more non-vegetarian than the Muslims. We met many Musalmans during our travel. Most of them said they are so poor that they just cannot afford non-vegetarian food

Despite sending such instructions, thousands of devotees arrived in Malir from Karachi, and the able dignitaries extended the best of hospitality to all of them.

The Editor of ‘Sindh Sevak’

From Malir itself, we got the opportunity to measure – How gentlemanly, how much devoted, how much skilled, how curious are the people of Karachi? Not only Jain but the non-Jain population was also over-excited. Even before we could settle down, the editors of the local newspapers arrived and greeted us – as if they came over to express their intent of extending their cooperation in our service to Sindh. Or as if they came over to encourage us for our services. In particular, the owner of ‘Sindh Sevak’ Bhai Bhadrashankar Bhatt and his reporter Bhai Ravji Ganatra greeted us very first. The essence of the interview they took was like this:

Question: “What is the opinion you have built of the population of Sindh during your travel?”

Answer: “I found the people of Sindh very naive. They have a lot of simplicity; they are friendly and devout. You can say they are more devout than required. Devoutness can be helpful only if it is within limits. They become very devout towards Jain Sadhus because they firmly believe that such renunciation is impossible. Therefore, I believe this region is good for propagating non-violence.”

Question: “Is it possible to stop non-vegetarianism in Sindh?”

Answer: “Of course. I feel the Hindus of Sindh are more non-vegetarian than the Muslims. We met many Musalmans during our travel. Most of them said they are so poor that they just cannot afford non-vegetarian food. The village people of Sindh are so poor that they cannot afford to purchase meat. The Hindus of Sindh are affluent, Jamindars, busy in indulgence. There’s a need to sermon them. Of course, the Hindus are devout. So, if they are convinced, the extent of non-vegetarianism can reduce, it can largely reduce.”

Question: “What kind of cooperation can we extend in your activities?”

Answer: “Definitely. I expect the cooperation of your newspaper in every activity of mine. Today press and periodicals are the main resources of propaganda. I have come to know that your newspaper is doing a good job in Sindh. And I would be grateful to you if you are helpful in my activities.”

What is The Purpose of our Visit?

The gathering at Malir had surrounded our group. Many people used to pay a visit to each Sadhu. Each of them was flooded with a series of questions. We were all tired. We had to go to Karachi. Rest was necessary. Still, we were so much raided by the people that we could not get peace until the evening. The people insisted to give some sermons. What sermons can we deliver today? The thought process had slowed down. Despite that, I narrated our purpose for visiting Sindh and gave a few hints about our plans in a few words on the ground of Devji Pragji Dharmashala. This is the essence of my discourse.

We have come to propagate the message of non-violence to each village of Sindh

You are all anxious to listen to me but tell me will you sustain the anxiousness to listen to us when we come to Karachi? I hope you will not tell us that time – Sahib, we do not get the time, we are busy with our business.

We have not come to give sermons only to Jains. We have come to propagate the message of non-violence to each village of Sindh as far as possible.

After listening to the sermons, it will not help you if you do not implement them in your life. If you want to be happy, try and make others happy, and have compassion towards the miserable. We do not possess the power required to accomplish the great work of propagating the message of non-violence in Sindh all by ourselves. We would very much need the support of journalists, affluent people, and devoted volunteers. I beg for your cooperation before entering Karachi.

From Malir to Drigh Road and from Drigh Road to Gujrat Nagar, we entered Karachi City on the 10th of June 1937 at 7 in the morning with a grand welcome by the Jain and the Non-Jain population of Karachi. (Continues)

Click here for Part-IPart-IIPart-IIIPart-IVPart-V Part-VI Part-VII Part-VIII Part-IXPart-XPart-XIPart-XIIPart-XIII , Part-XIV

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About the contributor of the series of Articles based on the book

Jainism - Vimal Shah - Sindh CourierVimal Shah is a follower of Jainism by birth and is based in Mumbai, India. He is a Computer Engineer and holds a Diploma in Jainology from Mumbai University. He has an immense interest in reading, writing, studying, and teaching Jain Philosophical subjects. He conducts classroom as well as online sessions on Jain Philosophical courses. He continues to study various subjects and remains a student of Jain Philosophy. He has significantly contributed to the Translation Project of the ‘Compendium of Jainism’ from English to Gujarati – an initiative of the JAINA India Foundation. He is also associated with a Project for the translation of Jain Aagams (Scriptures) from Gujarati to English. He has a special interest in the history and preservation of the Jain Heritage in Pakistan. He was part of a Delegation of the Jain Heritage Foundation, New Delhi that visited various Jain Heritage Sites in Pakistan in May-2023.

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