Travelogue

Travelogue: A Royal Morning at Ulriksdal

Rediscovering Stockholm’s Hidden Gem

Ulriksdal Palace gave us all: a royal history lesson, natural beauty, cultural quirks, a garden full of flowers and cats, good coffee, and even a frog to kick things off.

By Abdullah Usman Morai | Sweden

Living in Stockholm, it’s easy to fall into the routine of everyday life—work, errands, and the usual weekend activities. But every now and then, it’s refreshing to experience your own city as a tourist. To see the familiar with new eyes. On a weekend in May 2025, when the weather in Stockholm danced between chilly, cold, and occasional warmth, I did just that. Along with GunBritt and Pernilla, I set off to visit Ulriksdal Palace—a place steeped in royal history, surrounded by serene nature, and just a short drive from home.

Sweden-Abdullah-Usman-Sindh Courier-1A Frog, a Palace, and a Hint of a Wedding

It was around a half-hour drive from Nacka to Ulriksdal in Solna. We left early in the morning to beat the crowd and secure a good parking spot, which turned out to be a wise decision. As we began walking toward the palace, our first unexpected companion appeared: a small frog sitting right on the path. We paused, laughed, and took pictures, then gently encouraged him off the road before any vehicle could harm him. A lighthearted beginning to what turned out to be a magical day.

On our way, we passed a few people dressed in what looked like formal attire. Their elegant clothes suggested a wedding was on the horizon—perhaps a royal one, we joked, though weddings are common at this romantic venue.

The Fairytale Entrance

Ulriksdal Palace—or Ulriksdals slott, as it’s called in Swedish—is a glowing yellow gem set on the edge of Edsviken Lake. It was originally built in the 1600s for Jacob De la Gardie and later acquired by Queen Dowager Hedvig Eleonora. She renamed it Ulriksdal in honor of her grandson Prince Ulrik, who sadly passed away young. Despite the prince’s short life, the name lived on and is now associated with centuries of royal history.

As we approached the palace, the view was nothing short of enchanting. The combination of the bright yellow façade, the deep green of old trees, the polished gardens and fountains, the sparkling blue lake, and the cotton-white clouds painted a scene that looked like it had been lifted from the pages of a storybook. Paths for walking and cycling led visitors around the estate. Along the way, we saw cactus plants thriving in curated garden beds, and the faint scent of flowers hinted at spring in full bloom.

Sweden-Abdullah-Usman-Sindh Courier-2Sculptures, Fallen Trees, and Quiet Stories

Near the Orangery—a long, elegant structure that once served as a greenhouse for citrus trees and now houses classic sculptures—we saw two striking bronze statues pulling a net: De nätdragande morianerna (The Net-Pulling Moors), created by artist Per Lundgren in the early 1800s. These sculptures are both controversial and historically significant, sparking conversation about how art reflects social attitudes of its time.

There was even a whimsical sculpture of a panda tucked among the greenery—an unexpected but endearing sight in a royal estate. It added a playful twist to the otherwise traditional surroundings, and we stopped to admire it along with the other visitors.

We wandered further into the wooded parts of the garden, where we found a few very old, fallen trees. Their giant trunks lay across the forest floor, moss-covered and silent. There was something poetic about them—once mighty, now resting, becoming part of the soil and the landscape’s slow transformation.

At one point, we passed a group preparing for a televised baking competition, part of a national Swedish baking show. Tents and props were being set up, and excitement buzzed in the air. It was fun to witness, and it reminded us how many layers a place like this can have—from royal traditions to modern popular culture.

Trädgårdscafé: The Garden of Blooms and Buffets

After soaking in the scenery, we made our way to Ulriksdal Trädgårdscafé, a vibrant area full of flowers, ornamental plants, and cheerful crowds. This garden café is especially popular, not just for its buffet brunches, but for its remarkable variety of plants available for sale. The place was packed, with people walking around holding flower pots, picking herbs, or sipping their coffee while enjoying the blooming surroundings.

We didn’t eat here due to the rush, but we did take our time exploring the floral displays and garden items. Rows of seasonal blooms, climbing roses, decorative planters, and spring vegetables were displayed with love and care. While wandering through, we encountered a friendly cat lounging near the flowerbeds, as if he were the unofficial guardian of the garden. He let us pet him and posed calmly for a few pictures. It was a delightful, unexpected moment—one that added a personal charm to the visit.

Sweden-Abdullah-Usman-Sindh Courier-4Fika at Ulriksdals Besökscenter: Coffee and Calm

Eventually, we found ourselves at Ulriksdals Besökscenter, Kafé och Butik, a quieter spot where we enjoyed the very Swedish tradition of fika. More than just a coffee break, fika is about slowing down, sharing a moment with friends, and savoring something sweet with your drink. We ordered coffee and pastries, sat outside, and observed the peaceful rhythm of people around us—some resting after a cycle, others chatting quietly with friends and family.

The café also had a charming little gift shop. We browsed through handmade crafts, postcards, and small souvenirs. It was satisfying to take a piece of the day home with us, even if just in the form of a flower or a locally made item.

Sweden-Abdullah-Usman-Sindh Courier-3Inside the Palace Walls

While some parts of the palace were closed, the public areas were open for visitors. Inside, the palace has a cozy yet regal feel. Wooden floors creak underfoot, the walls are decorated with portraits of queens from centuries past, and old armchairs and chandeliers offer a glimpse into royal daily life. One wall displayed a mounted elk head, reminding us of Sweden’s deep connection to its forests and wildlife.

The palace interiors, particularly the 1920s renovations commissioned by Crown Prince Gustaf VI Adolf and Crown Princess Louise, reflect a blend of royal grandeur and Nordic simplicity. It was fascinating to walk through spaces where history had been made, where monarchs once dined, conversed, and lived.

Sweden-Abdullah-Usman-Sindh Courier-5A Farewell to the Lake

Before leaving, we returned to the lake, where ducks swam peacefully among the reeds. A few families had gathered there, feeding the birds, skipping stones, or simply sitting in silence, enjoying the calm.

There’s something deeply therapeutic about water. Whether it’s the gentle lapping of the lake or the soft whisper of wind through the trees, Ulriksdal offers a tranquil escape just minutes from the city.

Final Reflections: Travel Doesn’t Always Mean Far

You don’t need a plane ticket, hotel booking, or elaborate plans to experience something beautiful. Sometimes, it’s about rediscovering the place you already live in—with open eyes, a curious heart, and a few good friends. Visiting your hometown like a tourist can reveal things you’ve never noticed, or simply remind you how lucky you are to live where you do.

Ulriksdal Palace gave us all of that: a royal history lesson, natural beauty, cultural quirks, a garden full of flowers and cats, good coffee, and even a frog to kick things off.

If you ever find yourself with a free weekend in Stockholm—go visit Ulriksdal. You might just fall in love with your own city all over again.

Read – More Than Miles: Learning from Traveling

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Abdullah Soomro, penname Abdullah Usman Morai, hailing from Moro town of Sindh, province of Pakistan, is based in Stockholm Sweden. Currently he is working as Groundwater Engineer in Stockholm Sweden. He did BE (Agriculture) from Sindh Agriculture University Tando Jam and MSc water systems technology from KTH Stockholm Sweden as well as MSc Management from Stockholm University. Beside this he also did masters in journalism and economics from Shah Abdul Latif University Khairpur Mirs, Sindh. He is author of a travelogue book named ‘Musafatoon’. His second book is in process. He writes articles from time to time. A frequent traveler, he also does podcast on YouTube with channel name: VASJE Podcast.

 

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