The restaurant is named after a kind and generous man Bhagat Tarachand who loved to feed people, and earned the title ‘Bhagat’ which, in Sindhi, means kind-hearted. The legacy, which began in the 1890s in Karachi, was carried forward by his three sons.
Mini Ribeiro
Bearing testimony to Zaveri Bazaar’s palate for several decades, B Bhagat Tarachand is the place to head to for wholesome vegetarian Sindhi and Punjabi food.
Every morning at 9 am, traders who head to the wholesale market at Mumbai’s Zaveri Bazaar, congregate at B Bhagat Tarachand, for breakfast.
Aloo paratha with dahi and lassi is their staple, which the staff lovingly serves. This has been the pattern for several decades now. Synonymous with wholesome vegetarian Sindhi and Punjabi food, the restaurant serves meals throughout the day — both thalis and a la carte.
Now, Prakash Chawla, grandson of founder Bhagat Tarachand Chawla, is at the helm and is assisted by his nephews, Hitesh and Rahul, who make up the fourth generation.
The journey
“The restaurant is named after my grandfather, who was a kind and generous man and loved to feed people. He thus earned himself the title ‘Bhagat’ which, in Sindhi, means kind-hearted. The legacy, which began in the 1890s in Karachi, was carried forward by his three sons — my father Khemchand and two uncles, Radhumal and Gopalchand, and today, by my brothers and their families,” says Prakash.
After Partition, at loose ends upon arriving in Mumbai, Tarachand’s three sons, decided to start Bhagat Tarachand restaurant as a tribute to their father and to keep his passion for food alive.
“Over the years, we have grown and the business has expanded, so the family has branched out and there are several outlets all over Mumbai, including smaller ones in the malls. However, this one at Zaveri Bazaar is the oldest one of all. The core philosophy of serving fresh and affordable vegetarian food is something we strictly adhere to even today at each outlet,” informs Prakash with pride.
The evolution
What began as a small eatery on the ground floor with 30 seats, is a three-storied restaurant with a seating capacity of 200 today.
While the ground floor caters to those who want a quick bite or the thalis and do not mind sharing tables when busy, the first and second floors are more spacious and are for leisurely family meals, including an AC section.
Two vegetables, one dal , chappatis and lassi was all that the fixed menu offered for several decades, and yet, had a plethora of loyal patrons. “It is our food quality and hygiene which attracted customers then and does even now,” Prakash affirms.
The first menu variations were brought about as late as 1978 when Prakash joined his father. “Initially, changes were resisted, but when I could justify the difference they were making to the business, my father was immensely proud of me,” he recalls.
Tandoori rotis, parathas, naans , more vegetables and desserts were some of the items added to the menu post 1978. “The menu grew as per the demands of our guests and we gladly added Punjabi items to the otherwise Sindhi menu too,” he informs us.
More and more
Happy to introduce changes as they grew, modernization was accepted with grace. Initially, the kitchen was primitive and the food was cooked on charcoal. Sensing the need to expedite the pace in the kitchen in order to cater to larger volumes, modern equipment was introduced. But the food is still cooked in brass and copper vessels.
Uniforms were introduced for the staff to give a better look, refrigeration was done in the kitchen and a menu card was printed. “Earlier, in my father’s time, the menu was hand-written on a black board,” he reveals.
The seating in the restaurant was basic and sans frills. “People merely came here for a hearty and cheap meal. But when families started to throng this place, we were compelled to start an AC section too,” he adds.
“Changes may have been brought about to keep up with the times, but we have never compromised on the quality and freshness of our food. The same raw materials that are used in the restaurant are the ones used at home too,” Prakash states with candor.
Quality is of utmost importance to them, and so, no food sitting at kitchen counters for hours is acceptable at Bhagat Tarachand. “Food is cooked thrice daily to ensure freshness for our patrons,” he avers.
Dal fry, tawa rotis, papad churi, paneer bhurjee, rabdi, moong dal halwa, chaas or Kutchi beer, are the signature dishes which reign supreme on the menu even today, although the menu has expanded. While most of the recipes have remained unchanged, a streak of innovation to cater to the evolving palates of diners, is not something they are averse to.
Looking ahead
With the fourth generation stepping in, Prakash is relieved and ready to pass on the baton. “I have enjoyed my innings, but it is their time now. I am always around to guide them, but they have a free hand to run it their way,” he states. He is, in fact, looking forward to his son Vishal, currently in the US, joining the business.
Dining apps and platforms seem to be necessary today, so it is being done. However, B Bhagat Tarachand still does not feel the need to advertise. “We have the goodwill and blessings of our loyal patrons who spread the word,” Prakash sums up.
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Courtesy: The Hindu (Published on June 28, 2018)
