Into Norway’s Enchanted Mountains, Rivers, Lakes, and Valleys
And then, almost like an inner voice, an answer came: “You are a bird from Sindh. You have flown above the Indus River, over the deserts of Thar, across the Rann of Kutch. You are the guardian of Mohenjo-daro, the Sadh Belo, Manchar, Keenjhar, the Arabian Sea, and the Kirthar mountains. What are you doing here?”
By Abdullah Usman Morai | Sweden
A Picturesque Morning at the Lake
We freshened up, had breakfast, and filled our thermos with tea for the road. The skies were still cloudy but calmer, as if the clouds were resting after a night of downpour.
Before leaving, we walked around the area. What a sight it was!
- A tranquil lake lay before us, dotted with boats.
- On the opposite side rose green mountains.
- Birds flew here and there, some perched on trees, some glided above the water.
- The reflection of clouds, hills, and trees in the lake looked like a postcard, except this was real.
Our hearts felt light and joyful. On Brother Jan’s request, I presented him with a copy of my first travel book, “Musafatoon”, based on my journeys across Europe, Australia, Asia, and Africa. We took many photos by the lakeside, storing the memories of Hønefoss deep within us.
Back on the Road
Towards Flåm and Bergen
After packing up, we resumed our journey. Vickey took the steering wheel this time. Our first destination was the famous village of Flåm, nestled among the mountains, and from there, we aimed to reach Bergen.
Along the way, we noticed people cycling early in the morning, most likely commuting to work. Vickey turned the car onto the E16 highway, and once again, the magic of European roads unfolded.
Inside the car:
- Sindhi songs played.
- Jokes and politics slipped into the conversation.
- We snacked, sipped tea, and laughed.
Outside the car:
- Tall mountains covered with trees,
- Waterfalls cascading down their sides,
- Cows grazing in lush meadows,
- Wooden houses scattered in valleys, looking like scenes from a fairytale.
Every moment felt as if we were living inside a postcard.
Signs of Trouble: Floods on the Way
After about an hour, we noticed the water levels in the rivers rising alarmingly. In some places, the river almost touched the roadside. Warning signs appeared, and rescue teams were visible.
Down in the lower valleys, water had entered people’s homes. Some houses were submerged up to the rooftops, crops were destroyed, and devastation was visible everywhere.
After two and a half hours of driving, we finally reached a tunnel. But to our dismay, it was closed due to flooding.
This worried us. Not only had we planned to catch a train ride in Flåm through the mountains, but we still had a long journey ahead to Bergen. Reluctantly, like many other tourists, we had no choice but to turn back.
The Tunnel Closed: Searching for Another Way
Detour and Uncertainty
The guards standing outside the tunnel informed us:
“You’ll have to go back and take another route.”
We all felt uneasy. We began checking maps, searching for possible alternatives. On our way back, we tried two or three other side routes, but at each place, soldiers were standing. They warned us:
“We don’t think your car can climb this mountain in these weather and flooding conditions.”
At that point, Jan Muhammad Mangrio grew unusually silent, eyes fixed on his mobile. After a while, he broke the silence and suggested an alternate route. Taking his advice, we drove back for about half an hour and then turned onto a narrow single-lane road.
We asked a few locals whether it was open. They nodded yes, and once again our journey resumed. Eventually, we managed to get back on the E16 highway.
Jan commented that in the UK, this is quite common; roads get closed for repairs, and one simply has to find alternate routes. His words eased our mood a little.
A Tea Break in the Mountains
All this while, Vickey had been driving continuously, and fatigue was settling in. So we stopped for a tea break and driver swap at a petrol station in the Årdal region, near a shop called Kiwi.
Among friends, we often joke:
“Whoever refuses tea deserves punishment!”
So how could anyone say no to hot tea in such a setting, far from the busy cities, surrounded by mountains, sharing laughter with friends? We had two cups each, refreshed ourselves, and resumed the journey.
Meanwhile, the soulful qawwalis of Nusrat Fateh Ali Khan played in the car. On those winding mountain roads, by the lakes and waterfalls, his voice carried us into another world altogether.
Yet, travel isn’t only about the beauty of the moment; it’s also about careful planning. Because of delays, we had already missed our Flåm mountain train tour booking. The journey ahead was still long, and I thought:
“Since the floods and road closures are already in the news, why not call the train operators and request a change?”
Vickey phoned them. Fortunately, they were aware of the situation and kindly rescheduled our booking to 5:00 PM the same evening. We cheered loudly inside the car, proof once again that effort is the key to success.
Norway’s Stunning Landscapes
Nature’s Masterpiece Along the Road
As we drove, Norway unfolded its grandeur:
- Towering mountains capped with mist,
- Shimmering lakes,
- Long, silver waterfalls,
- Valleys with neat, picturesque houses,
- Horses, cows, and sheep grazing peacefully.
It reminded me of northern Pakistan, where rivers, mountains, and meadows create a similar scene.
We passed through several small and large tunnels along the way, each one carrying us deeper into this enchanting landscape.
Memories of Friends in Bergen
Our ultimate destination after Flåm was Bergen. At that point, I remembered Saeed Talpur, who had once studied there. In Melbourne, Australia, he had told me how, during his student days in Bergen, he had met the famous Sindhi couple Balakh Sher Mehar and Shaista Alamani, the “Laila-Majnun of the 21st century.”
They had migrated to Norway because life in Sindh had become difficult for them. We wondered if perhaps Saeed still had contact with Balakh Sher, so that we could meet him in Bergen. But Saeed told us:
“It’s been a long time. After we left Norway, we lost touch completely.”
The World’s Longest Road Tunnel
Entering Lærdalstunnelen
Before reaching Flåm, we entered the Lærdal Tunnel (Lærdalstunnelen) — the longest road tunnel in the world, stretching nearly 25 kilometers.
Inside, there were even roundabouts, and to keep drivers alert, every 6 kilometers, there were rest areas where vehicles could stop. Special blue lighting was installed, giving the illusion that you were about to exit the tunnel, even though the end was still far away.
The effect was striking: the light not only helped visibility but also kept drivers mentally active.
Because of Norway’s unique geography, with its giant mountains, deep lakes, and fjords, such tunnels are essential for efficient transportation. Every year, more and more tunnels are built, all for the convenience of the public.
In this record-breaking tunnel, it was Sunil’s honor to drive.
Entering Flåm Valley and the Fjords
As we emerged from the tunnel and moved toward the town of Flåm, we saw the world-famous MSC Cruise anchored in the waters of Aurlandsfjord. The fjords of Norway are among the most renowned in the world.
A fjord, in essence, is a natural arm of the sea that stretches deep inland between mountains, often ending at the base of towering cliffs. The water does not flow further into other streams but remains blocked within the mountain basin. Many fjords are very deep. Countless tourists visit Norway solely to witness this magnificent union of water and mountains, a creation of nature’s artistry. That day, the same breathtaking view unfolded before the eyes of four Sindhis, including me.
The moment we entered the valley of Flåm, it felt as if we had stepped into an enchanted world. Since a massive cruise liner was also anchored there, the town was alive with tourists wandering around, their faces glowing with joy and contentment.
We still had an hour and a half before our train journey, so we parked our car and strolled about. We visited several souvenir shops, buying a few keepsakes to carry home. For lunch, we ate pizza at a cafeteria and restaurant called Furukroa.
Around us, mountains stood guard over the valley, some half-veiled by mist and clouds, others fully revealed in their rugged majesty. The air carried a refreshing coolness, and the breeze felt alive with purity. On the balconies of the cruise ship, we noticed some tourists seated quietly, perhaps having already explored Flåm earlier in the day and now returned to their vessel.
Near the railway station stood the Railway Museum, which we decided to explore later, on our way back. And of course, we busied ourselves taking countless photographs.
The Departure of the Cruise
After a while, we noticed that passengers from the cruise began returning toward the ship. It was about to depart. Soon enough, the massive vessel sounded its horn, lifted anchor, and began its journey onward. From the ship’s balconies, passengers waved farewell to the crowd standing on the ferry terminal. Those on land, including us, waved back with equal warmth.
As the ship slowly sailed away, a flock of birds followed in its wake, and gradually the town began to feel quieter, almost empty. It was then time for us to experience what Flåm is most famous for, its legendary train journey.
At the Flåm Railway Station
We reached the charming Flåm Railway Station to board the scenic train. Personally, I have always adored such two-platform stations nestled in valleys surrounded by mountains. Sometimes I wish that time could pause at such places, just long enough for one to fully absorb their beauty.
But perhaps true beauty lies in the realization that this visible charm is merely a reflection of the One Creator, who designed the entire universe. When we recognize the Creator behind the beauty, our appreciation deepens, becoming twice as meaningful.
Boarding the Flåm Railway
This special railway is known as the Flåmsbana, which was to takes us from Flåm up to Myrdal Station.
When we arrived, we still had leftover slices of pizza in a box. Seeing this, the cheerful train attendant jokingly asked, “Did you bring that pizza for me?” We laughed and replied, “If you feel like it, go ahead and eat it!” He grinned; it was all in good humor.
Before boarding, we even asked the attendant to take our photos, which he happily did. That moment reminded all of us of the famous Bollywood film “Dilwale Dulhania Le Jayenge”, when Amrish Puri tells Kajol, “Go, Simran, go, live your life.” We laughed heartily at the similarity. We, too, were not merely trying to pass through life; we were striving to truly live it.
Soon, the journey began. The four Sindhis claimed the window seats, while many other tourists filled the train. The carriages had a classic old-fashioned style, giving the ride a nostalgic charm.
The Scenic Railway Journey
On the screens inside the train, the full route map was displayed, along with other information. The journey was about 20 kilometers long, but it carried immense fame: this route is considered one of the most beautiful train journeys in the world. Indeed, it is a great attraction for anyone visiting Norway.
Soon, the train began climbing into the mountain valleys. From the windows, we saw rain-soaked houses, winding roads, and passing cars. We were steadily ascending, while on the mountainsides, streams of melted snow and waterfalls rushed downward with great force.
As the train climbed higher, the valley below opened up in a breathtaking panorama. At that moment, all of us felt like birds flying above, gazing down at winding streams, scattered houses, and rooftops far below. A thought arose: “Who am I, and what am I doing in these beautiful valleys?”
And then, almost like an inner voice, an answer came: “You are a bird from Sindh. You have flown above the Indus River, over the deserts of Thar, across the Rann of Kutch. You are the guardian of Mohenjo-daro, the Sadh Belo, Manchar, Keenjhar, the Arabian Sea, and the Kirthar mountains. What are you doing here?”
When the train horn echoed, it felt like the bird inside me awakened again, reminding me of my presence in Norway’s magical valleys. I smiled softly, and as the train climbed higher and higher, I felt as though I, too, was ascending toward the sky.
The Train Stops for Passing Rails
Midway, the train halted at a point to give way to an oncoming train. After a short wait, the other train slowly rumbled past us. Once again, our journey resumed. After some time, an announcement was made that soon the train would stop at a waterfall named Kjosfossen, where tourists would have ten to fifteen minutes to enjoy the views and take photographs.
When the train finally arrived there, the sight of the waterfall and its surroundings filled our hearts with joy. The waterfall drops down 305 feet, and nearby, the only sound was that of the roaring water, while droplets floated gently in the air, brushing against our faces. We took some selfies, a few group photos, and noticed that every tourist was busy with their own photography. So, for a proper group photo, we requested the train hostess to take one for us, and she happily agreed.
The place had been designed with remarkable skill: the fast-falling water of the waterfall was directed to pass beneath the railway tracks, and as soon as one stepped off the train, a large wooden platform welcomed visitors. The moment people stepped onto it, a friendly contest of photo-taking began.
For a short while, I closed my eyes, trying to feel the cool droplets on my face carried by the waterfall’s spray. I tried to sense my presence there with my heart, grateful that the Creator had allowed me to witness His creation. Most tourists had already returned to the train, but we four Sindhis felt our hearts were still unsatisfied. After gazing a little longer, we finally climbed back aboard, and the journey resumed.
The Heights of Myrdal
Along the way, a few other stations appeared. At each station, a board displayed how high the station was above sea level, just like in Pakistan, when traveling by rail towards Quetta, you often see similar boards.
At Myrdal Station, a sign read that it was 866 meters above sea level, making it one of the “rooftop stations.” When the train stopped, we too got off along with the other tourists. We were given around fifteen to twenty minutes to enjoy the environment before returning.
And what is “enjoying the environment”? It means to feel the surroundings with your heart, to cherish the views, to embrace the atmosphere within yourself. At Myrdal, no towering mountains were visible nearby, because we had already climbed so high that we had reached nearly their level. Just as in Pakistan’s Deosai Plains, where people feel they are standing above the mountains, here too, the height gave a similar sensation.
We all deeply felt our presence at Myrdal, capturing photographs for memory. This rail journey was a complete package, allowing one to enjoy both the marvels of natural scenery and the wonders of railway engineering. We all gave thanks that, despite weather risks and road closures, we had successfully made this tour possible.
Returning to Flåm
On our way back, the same tunnels, the same landscapes greeted us again. Arriving at Flåm, we wished to visit the Railway Museum, but unfortunately, it had already closed. “What could we do, dear friend? Nothing, except sigh and move on.”
Before heading to Bergen, we took one last stroll around charming Flåm. At the parking lot, two young girls fearlessly circled on an e-scooter, full of laughter. We then got back into our car. Though we left Flåm, Flåm stayed in our hearts. It is a place where one should spend at least a few days, but alas, time was not on our side.
Once again, we merged onto the E16 highway. Bergen was still about two and a half to three hours away. (Continues)
Click here for Part-1
______________
Abdullah Soomro, penname Abdullah Usman Morai, hailing from Moro town of Sindh, province of Pakistan, is based in Stockholm Sweden. Currently he is working as Groundwater Engineer in Stockholm Sweden. He did BE (Agriculture) from Sindh Agriculture University Tando Jam and MSc water systems technology from KTH Stockholm Sweden as well as MSc Management from Stockholm University. Beside this he also did masters in journalism and economics from Shah Abdul Latif University Khairpur Mirs, Sindh. He is author of a travelogue book named ‘Musafatoon’. His second book is in process. He writes articles from time to time. A frequent traveler, he also does podcast on YouTube with channel name: VASJE Podcast.
