Nordic Peaks, Pristine Rivers, Valleys-3

Into Norway’s Enchanted Mountains, Rivers, Lakes, and Valleys

That day, as we drove, we listened to Fozia Soomro’s famous song: “Muhinjo Daarun Dawa, Tuhinjo Didaar Aa” (“My only medicine is your sight, showing me to doctors is useless”)

By Abdullah Usman Morai | Sweden

Arrival in Bergen

At last, around 11:30 p.m., we safely arrived in Bergen, Norway’s second-largest city. Our Airbnb flat was located by a creek flowing from the North Sea, in an area called Eidsvågsneset.

The apartment was quite spacious: two bedrooms, a large living room, a sea-facing balcony, and a wide kitchen. I quickly brewed tea, and Vickey began preparing pilaf/pula with chickpeas. Despite the long day of traveling, fatigue felt lighter. Perhaps it was because beloved friends were together, and the journey had been through such beautiful mountainous landscapes.

At night, nothing much could be seen outside, but we were to discover the breathtaking view in the morning. Meanwhile, we enjoyed tea before and after dinner, chatting away to the tunes of Sindhi poetry. It felt like a “mini-Sindh” far away from Sindh itself. Truly, we Sindhis are like that, wherever we are, our conversations, our humor, our songs, and our food always circle back to Sindh.

Morning in Bergen

At dawn, when we drew the curtains from the glass walls of the flat, a stunning view unfolded before us under a clear sky. After getting ready, having breakfast, and refreshing ourselves, we set out. Our plan was to explore Bergen during the day and reach Stavanger late at night. That meant it was to be another long, eventful day ahead.

We sat in the car and headed towards Bergen city center…

Saeen Bhali Ghumo Bergen (Welcome to Bergen)

The City of Seven Mountains and Endless Rain

Bergen, a city crowned as the European Capital of Culture in the year 2000, is often called “the city of seven mountains.” It rains here, or at least threatens to rain, on 231 days of the year. Bergen is also famously known as the “Gateway to the Fjords.”

We parked our car and headed toward the Rodne Fjord Cruise, where we had a booking. The city was full of tourists, and business activities were in full swing. Bergen was strikingly clean, with most people moving about on foot. Still, bicycles were plentiful, and modern boats stood anchored in the waters of the North Sea. The surrounding air carried a distinct smell of fish.

Because the sky was clear, reflections of boats and nearby buildings appeared vividly on the smooth surface of the water. Before boarding the cruise, we posed for several photographs to capture the moment.

Boarding the Fjord Cruise

The cruise was crowded with enthusiastic tourists. As the boat left the shore, we climbed up to the upper deck. Slowly, Bergen began to recede behind us, and the views ahead expanded magnificently.

The distant mountains revealed Bergen’s signature colorful, picturesque houses, neatly lined up on their slopes. Beauty surrounded us everywhere, both in the landscape and among the cheerful faces of fellow travelers.

The sky was crystal clear, but the breeze grew stronger. Sunlight sparkled on the rippling water, and the tall masts of sailing ships glistened in golden hues. The famous AIDA cruise ship was also anchored in Bergen’s waters, explaining the city’s heavy tourist rush.

A Sudden Surprise Over the Water

Everyone was absorbed in the scenery when suddenly a loud noise from the water caught our attention. It was a helicopter, stationed on the surface before swiftly racing across the water and soaring into the air.

The cruise passed beneath the Nordhordland Bridge, which connects Flatøy Island with Bergen’s municipality of Klauvaneset, and then steered toward the Modalen side. The strong winds forced us to shift between the upper and lower decks, adding thrill to the journey.

The views were breathtaking; the same majestic image of mountains and sky appeared mirrored in the water below. Ducks swam in rows across the fjord, adding life to the calm scenery.

Entering the Heart of the Fjords

As we sailed further, green meadows and a few scattered houses appeared nestled between the mountains. The beauty was indescribable. This was the Mostraumen area, which is said to be an open-air museum.

The cruise paused briefly so that tourists could take photographs. The sight brought peace to the heart. We requested two girls, tourists from Italy, to take some pictures for us. They happily obliged, taking several shots, and we returned the favor for them.

The cruise then continued deeper into the Mostraumen Fjord (channel). On both sides, mountains rose like massive walls, and from their cliffs, waterfalls cascaded down into the fjord. Truly, this was nature’s glory.

Reaching Modalen

Eventually, the cruise reached the small village of Mo in Modalen, the final stop. When one thinks of Bergen, an image instantly comes to mind, the unique, colorful wooden houses often seen on postcards. Now, those very houses stood before us.

At the far end of Mostraumen Fjord, nestled between mountains along the water’s edge, stood these houses known as Moberg Houses. Today, they host restaurants, bars, and perhaps hotels for visitors. Tourists eagerly photographed this enchanting view.

These types of houses in Bergen are recognized as UNESCO World Heritage Sites.

On the Way Back

On the return journey, the cruise stopped beneath a tall, plunging waterfall, allowing tourists to witness its grandeur up close. The sight was mesmerizing, another unforgettable memory of Bergen’s fjords.

Back Again in Bergen City Center

We had once again returned to Bergen’s city center. The sun was shining in its full glory. People were enjoying the warmth sitting on benches along the waterfront, while others sat in restaurants. We too strolled around the temporary food stalls in the food court, just to take a look at what was on offer. Most of the food there was seafood-based. We decided to have our lunch there.

Once we were done with our meal, we thought of exploring the city on foot, a wonderful idea indeed. As Rumi says, “When you start walking, the path will reveal itself.” That’s exactly what we did, we just kept walking.

Wandering Through Bergen’s Old Streets

First, we passed by the statue of Ludvig Holberg and an old church, then wandered into the old quarters of the city, strolling through various narrow streets until we reached Bergen Railway Station. We weren’t taking a train, but out of curiosity, we went inside for a look. From behind the station, beautiful houses perched on the hills came into view.

The Lake at Lille Lungegårdsvannet Park

Walking further, we reached Bergen’s park at Lille Lungegårdsvannet Lake. Around the lake, various flowers had been planted, and in the middle stood a fountain that added even more charm to the lake, the park, and the city of Bergen itself. The park was stunning.

Interestingly, the lake used to be much larger, but it had been partially filled to gain land. Many people were relaxing there; some were jogging, others strolling just like us. We took plenty of photographs. From this park, we could also see a particular mountain in the distance, the very one we were planning to ascend later by cable car.

From there, passing through Festplassen and Byparken, we reached Bergen’s main pedestrian street, Torgallmenningen. It was bustling with people and lined with many shops. We also visited a few souvenir shops and bought some light keepsakes.

Bergen Fish Market and Cable Car Tickets

Bergen’s fish market was also worth a visit. Inside, people could see some live sea creatures displayed in glass showcases and even purchase them. But there was nothing of interest for us there.

Above the market was the tourist information office, from where we bought tickets for the cable car ride to the mountain. It was time to bid farewell to this part of Bergen. Before heading to the car parking area, we grabbed some snacks from a shop and quickly made our way toward the cable car station.

Memories of Agricultural University Days

On the way, a conversation with Jan Mangrio led to the mention of my university classmate, Ibrahim Mangrio, nicknamed Ibhro, who also happened to be a relative of Jan. I shared stories of Ibrahim’s jokes and certain words he used to say that we could never understand back then.

Jan explained that those words belonged to the Dhatki dialect and told me their meanings. We laughed heartily. Imagine! Words spoken in Tandojam at Sindh Agricultural University more than 25 years ago were now making sense to me, that too in Bergen, a mountain city in Northern Europe. Truly, life paints in amazing colors.

The Ascent to Mount Ulriken

We parked our car in Bergen Hospital’s parking lot and started walking uphill toward the Ulriken cable car entrance. Finally, we reached it, success!

In the cable car, there were six of us in total, our group of four and two other tourists. The ride lasted only about five minutes. From above, we could see some tourists trekking their way up the mountain, though we didn’t have time for that today.

Within minutes, we were at the top, standing as though on the rooftop of Bergen city. The view was breathtaking. Tourists were everywhere, many of them quite striking in their appearance. A restaurant was also located at the top, where people were enjoying food and drinks in the open terrace while simultaneously soaking in the magnificent views of Bergen and the surrounding valleys.

The Bird’s Eye View of Bergen

Mount Ulriken is the tallest of Bergen’s seven mountains, standing 643 meters above sea level. From there, we witnessed the entire city, the surrounding mountains, the lakes glistening in the distance, and the fjords stretching out far and wide. Bergen appeared as though it was resting in the palm of our hands. It truly felt like we were looking at the city with a bird’s eye view.

By coincidence, we also ran into the same Italian cruise girls we had met earlier. We asked them once again to take our photos, and everyone laughed joyfully. Such things often happen while traveling; you end up meeting the same fellow tourists at different sites.

On Top of Ulriken Mountain

We kept walking around the top, soaking in the breathtaking view, mountains stretching far into the distance, water glistening below, and all of it merging into the horizon line. Soon, we all began to feel the need for tea, which we had thoughtfully prepared in the morning and brought along. Sipping hot tea and biscuits in the crisp air, surrounded by such stunning views, with dear friends by our side, made the moment feel warmer and even more delightful.

And, of course, we didn’t forget one of our old habits, dipping biscuits into the tea, even on the mountaintop. What a joy it was!

One thing I always admire in such hilly places is the presence of signboards or arrows pointing towards different tracks and trails. They are especially helpful if someone happens to lose their way. On top of Ulriken Mountain, too, there was a large wooden post with signs showing directions to various trekking routes. But we didn’t plan to head further; instead, we would take the cable car back down.

Before leaving, we took our final photos at the Ulriken memorial tower. Everyone was happy, hearts were light, and a sense of relief spread among us. “Come on then,” someone said, “time to move towards our next destination.”

Journey to Stavanger, Norway’s Oil Capital

Our next stop was Stavanger, Norway’s fourth-largest city and often called its oil capital, around 225 kilometers away. Interestingly, Stavanger was awarded the title of European City of Culture in 2008.

We began our drive along the E39 highway. Along the way, we had to load our car onto ferries at two different points. These ferries are actually part of the official road system, used to help vehicles cross the wide sea inlets. Once onboard, passengers can leave their cars and climb up to the deck, where there are restaurants, cafeterias, and seating areas to rest, grab a bite, or even do some quick shopping before continuing the journey.

I believe, however, that with the rapid pace at which Norway is constructing road tunnels, perhaps someday this ferry system will disappear altogether. Travelers may instead pass directly beneath the sea through tunnels, saving both time and effort.

That day, as we drove, we listened to Fozia Soomro’s famous song: “Muhinjo Daarun Dawa, Tuhinjo Didaar Aa” (“My only medicine is your sight, showing me to doctors is useless”). It instantly transported me back to my university days, when I used to travel from Hyderabad to Tando Jam in those noisy buses and coasters. These same songs of Fozia Soomro would be playing, and with them came the sweet memories of dear friends and those youthful days. (Continues)

Click here for Part-1, Part-2, 

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Abdullah Soomro, penname Abdullah Usman Morai, hailing from Moro town of Sindh, province of Pakistan, is based in Stockholm Sweden. Currently he is working as Groundwater Engineer in Stockholm Sweden. He did BE (Agriculture) from Sindh Agriculture University Tando Jam and MSc water systems technology from KTH Stockholm Sweden as well as MSc Management from Stockholm University. Beside this he also did masters in journalism and economics from Shah Abdul Latif University Khairpur Mirs, Sindh. He is author of a travelogue book named ‘Musafatoon’. His second book is in process. He writes articles from time to time. A frequent traveler, he also does podcast on YouTube with channel name: VASJE Podcast.