The Sea, the Hills, and the Heart between Fog and Flowers
By Abdullah Usman Morai | Sweden
During my childhood in Moro (Sindh), we used to have a satellite dish at home that picked up a channel named RTP. I remember watching a drama on it that often showed small villages with blue-colored houses. They looked incredibly beautiful. I did a bit of research back then and found out that RTP was actually the national television channel of Portugal.
From that moment on, I would often open our World Atlas book and look at Portugal, imagining what it would be like to go there. It felt very far from Sindh — almost unreachable — but what could I do? My love for travel had already started blossoming in those early days. I don’t even remember what the drama was about, but years later, the opportunity finally came for this boy from Moro’s Soomro family to visit Portugal — and I didn’t let it pass me by.
Booking the Flight to a Distant Dream
Flights from Stockholm to Portugal were usually quite expensive, especially direct ones. But once, I found a reasonably priced ticket on TAP Air Portugal, the national airline, and booked it without delay.
Portugal is located in southwestern Europe along the coast of the Atlantic Ocean.
Arrival in Lisbon – A Childhood Dream Fulfilled
On December 10th, 2022, I boarded the TAP flight from Stockholm Arlanda Airport to Lisbon, the capital of Portugal — and with that, my journey to a new country had begun. The flight lasted around four and a half hours.
Many of the passengers on board were from Latin America, especially Brazil. It seemed that Lisbon was just a connecting point for them, and they would continue their journey onward. As for me, this time I was only heading to Lisbon.
Around 6 PM, the plane touched down at Humberto Delgado Airport, and there I was — no longer just looking at Portugal on the map in the World Atlas, but actually standing within its borders. I silently thanked the Almighty.
Getting to the City from the Airport
Since it wasn’t too late and the flight had landed on time, there wasn’t much need to take a taxi. I walked to the metro station beneath the airport. At the ticket counter sat a young man of mixed ethnicity. He didn’t seem very enthusiastic about his job — or maybe he wasn’t very fluent in English — but in any case, I managed to get my metro ticket and headed toward the platform.
I had done a bit of research on which train to take and where to change, but to avoid any mishaps, I usually double-check with the people around me. Just then, a staff member from TAP Airlines was also leaving for home after his shift. I asked him once more about the metro route. He had a pleasant and positive demeanor and told me that he, too, would be boarding the same train. We began chatting as we waited for the metro.
He told me that TAP Airlines operated numerous flights to various countries in South America, and that many travelers from Europe who head to Latin America fly via Lisbon. He asked me about Pakistan and Sweden, and I inquired about Lisbon. He shared a lot of information, particularly about certain tourist areas of the city and local foods.
Although it was December, the weather was quite pleasant. After a few stations, we reached one where the TAP staffer had to change trains. He guided me to board another train that was headed in the direction I needed to go. I thanked him for his kindness.
First Impressions of Lisbon – Metro Station to Hotel
I got on the second train and carefully watched the map, making sure I wouldn’t miss my stop. Luckily, I didn’t, and I safely arrived at the Marquês de Pombal metro station.
This was a major intersection in Lisbon, and the area was quite busy with traffic. As Christmas was approaching, the entire square was beautifully decorated. That reminded me of the official Christmas dinner organized by our company back in Stockholm during those very days, which I had to skip because of my trip to Portugal. As they say in the local slang, “Some prefer a full stomach, others prefer a full sight.” Everyone has their own priorities.
I told myself: let’s first check into the hotel and drop off the luggage, then I can explore. I walked about 10-12 minutes and reached the Nacional Hotel on Rua Castilho Santo António, which I had pre-booked.
The young receptionist greeted me warmly, checked my passport, handed me the room key, explained where breakfast would be served, and gave me the Wi-Fi password — everything smooth and professional. I took a quick look around the room, caught my breath, and headed back out.
Dinner Hunt on a Lisbon Evening
For this Portugal tour, I hadn’t planned to travel extensively — just Lisbon and the magical nearby town of Sintra. So, I intended to take things easy and explore at a relaxed pace.
Before heading out, I asked the hotel receptionist to recommend a nearby restaurant for dinner. He advised me to walk a couple of blocks, then turn left — there I would find a good restaurant.
I followed his instructions and reached the restaurant, but it was extremely crowded and there was a long queue. I thought to myself, “No point waiting here unnecessarily.” So I walked on and eventually found myself on Avenida da Liberdade — Liberty Avenue.
This famous boulevard is just over a kilometer long and stretches from the Marquês de Pombal roundabout southward to the large Praça dos Restauradores (Restorers’ Square), connecting further to Rossio Square.
That night, I didn’t walk all the way south but looped back toward Marquês de Pombal, where I grabbed something quick from McDonald’s and returned to the hotel.
A Familiar Voice in a Foreign Land
There was no electric kettle in the hotel room, so I went down to the restaurant bar a couple of times to get hot water for tea. As I sipped my final cup of tea that night, I received a call from Salman Bhai, who had come to Lisbon a few days earlier from Stockholm for some personal work. We had known each other for a long time in Stockholm.
We had a great chat and made plans to meet the next day and explore the city together.
Then I recited a silent prayer to the Almighty and went to sleep.
A New Morning in Lisbon
A beautiful morning dawned, and I got ready and headed to the breakfast area. A couple was already there, enjoying their meal. In most European hotels, the breakfast buffet includes a wide variety of items, so much that one cannot try everything, even if they want to. As I was still preparing my breakfast plate, more hotel guests gradually began arriving, and soon the place was buzzing with activity. It seemed to me that most of them were tourists from other European countries, hurriedly eating so they could head out for sightseeing.
After finishing my breakfast, I returned to the room and waited for Brother Salman, who arrived shortly afterward. Together, we boarded a bus for our day’s exploration. Our destination was the Belém district, one of the most popular tourist areas in Lisbon. The bus was packed, mostly with tourists like us. Throughout the roughly 40-minute journey, we barely found a seat. As we traveled, I tried to understand the surroundings of Lisbon, observing the buses, trams, cars, and people walking around.
Arrival at Jerónimos Monastery
We got off at the last bus stop, and after walking a short distance, we reached the Jerónimos Monastery, built in the 16th century. A long line of tourists stood outside waiting to get in. Since we didn’t plan to go inside, we simply roamed around the exterior, took some memorable photos, and enjoyed the architectural beauty. The nearby streets were calm, with minimal traffic—only the occasional sound of trams broke the silence.
Imperial Park and Maritime Discoveries
We then walked further and passed by the Imperial Park, a beautifully designed public space. Across the road, on the bank of the Tagus River, stood the iconic Monument to the Discoveries (Padrão dos Descobrimentos), commemorating Portugal’s age of exploration. Below it, the large Rosa dos Ventos (Compass Rose) mosaic attracted many visitors who were walking around, marveling at the design and tracing the historic sea routes on the world map laid beneath their feet.
To get there, we used the underpass that crosses the road safely. Upon arrival, it felt like every tourist in Lisbon had gathered there—the place was bustling with people, conversations, and cameras clicking.
A View from Above
From afar, the Monument to the Discoveries looks like a tower. But in reality, it is a multi-level structure with a viewing platform at the top that provides a bird’s-eye view of the surrounding areas. The basement houses a small museum. We first explored the outdoor area, taking in the atmosphere, admiring the Compass Rose map and the sea routes etched into it. After capturing some memorable photos, we bought tickets and took the elevator to the top.
The view from above was extraordinary. The Tagus River stretched far and wide, and in the distance, we could see where it met the Atlantic Ocean. The most stunning sight was the 25 de Abril Bridge, resembling the Golden Gate Bridge of San Francisco. It spanned the river, creating a spectacular backdrop of city, water, mountains, and sky all blended together. The Imperial Park and the Jerónimos Monastery also looked captivating from above, while boats dotted the river below. The Compass Rose design was clearly visible, too.
The top platform was narrow, so visitors had to wait their turn to take photos and soak in the view. While we were up there, clouds began to form and soon grew thick, but that didn’t deter us.
Museum and Maritime Statues
After spending enough time enjoying the panoramic view, we descended to explore the museum and exhibition space inside the monument. The walls featured numerous photographs and historical displays, but we only spent about five to six minutes inside before heading back out.
Outside, we walked around the monument shaped like a ship, adorned with statues of famous Portuguese explorers from the Age of Discovery. At the front of the ship-like structure stood the statue of Henry the Navigator, leading the group of explorers. Tourists were excitedly taking pictures and recording videos, capturing memories. Nearby, local private boats and tourist ferries floated peacefully.
Belém Tower – Gateway to the Sea
We then walked toward the Belém Tower, which we had seen earlier from a distance. Recognized as a UNESCO World Heritage Site, the tower once served as the launching point for Portuguese explorers who set out to establish colonies around the world. This was also the same point where they returned from their long and often perilous sea voyages. One of Portugal’s most legendary explorers, Vasco da Gama, was among those who departed from here.
A Tram Ride and a Serendipitous Encounter
It was time to head back, but not without taking a ride on Lisbon’s iconic tram. After all, visiting Lisbon without experiencing a tram ride would feel incomplete. As we made our way to the nearest tram stop, we came across a young woman running a small souvenir shop from a vintage van. T-shirts, postcards, fridge magnets, scarves, cloth bags, hats—she had a wide range of items displayed both inside and outside the van.
We stopped for a bit, browsing the items. The young woman greeted us warmly. Upon learning that we live in Sweden, she shared that she was considering applying for a student exchange program to study there. She asked many questions about life in Sweden—education, daily living, people, the environment, and especially the weather. We purchased a few souvenirs and then boarded tram number 15.
Tickets can be bought onboard, which we did. The tram was old but well-maintained and relatively uncrowded. I tried to immerse myself in the experience, observing every detail around me, feeling fully present in Lisbon.
Arco da Rua Augusta and Praça do Comércio
As the tram glided through the city, we admired the urban scenes and got off near the Arco da Rua Augusta, the grand triumphal arch. By now, thick clouds had taken over the sky. We strolled around, clicking photos of the arch and passing trams, and eventually reached the famous Praça do Comércio (Commercial Square). At its center stood the grand statue of King Joseph I, seated on horseback, facing the sea.
We continued walking down to the edge of the Tagus River, where a stone-paved platform stretched into the water. At its end stood two stone pillars. The platform looked somewhat worn and could use some maintenance, but that didn’t stop tourists from taking photos, and we joined them. In the distance, a large ferry crossed the river.
Reflections on the Past
Standing there, I imagined I had traveled back in time. Perhaps that ferry—like the ships of old—was setting out on a journey of discovery across the seas. Who knows when it would return? Or if it ever would? In the past, explorers would bid farewell to their families, often unsure if they’d ever see home again. That thought gave me goosebumps. It was a silent tribute to the courage and uncertainty faced by those who dared to chase the unknown. (Continues)
Read: From Sunrise to Summer Joy
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Abdullah Soomro, penname Abdullah Usman Morai, hailing from Moro town of Sindh, province of Pakistan, is based in Stockholm Sweden. Currently he is working as Groundwater Engineer in Stockholm Sweden. He did BE (Agriculture) from Sindh Agriculture University Tando Jam and MSc water systems technology from KTH Stockholm Sweden as well as MSc Management from Stockholm University. Beside this he also did masters in journalism and economics from Shah Abdul Latif University Khairpur Mirs, Sindh. He is author of a travelogue book named ‘Musafatoon’. His second book is in process. He writes articles from time to time. A frequent traveler, he also does podcast on YouTube with channel name: VASJE Podcast.
