A Cultural and Coastal Journey through Northern Poland
By Abdullah Usman Morai | Sweden
Day 2 – Morning in Sopot: Wind, Breakfast, and Bohaterów Monte Cassino
The day began softly, with tea and coffee shared in the quiet of our hotel room—small comforts before setting out again into the rhythm of travel. We got ready swiftly, eager to embrace the coastal charm of Sopot, a popular Baltic seaside town just west of Gdańsk.
We ordered a taxi and were on our way. The journey took about half an hour, winding past streets, parks, and distant glimpses of the coastline. The driver seemed unusually quiet, almost brooding, perhaps lost in his own thoughts—or perhaps bothered by something we couldn’t know. Still, he dropped us safely near Sopot Centrum, and we began our exploration.
Breakfast by the Monument
With a fresh coastal breeze brushing our faces, we walked into the heart of the town and soon found a small local cafeteria named Pociag Do offering breakfast. At first, we chose to sit outside near the Pomnik statue, a commemorative monument standing proudly in the square. But the sea breeze had other plans—the wind was cold and persistent, and we soon found ourselves retreating indoors, seeking warmth.
Inside, the café was modest but inviting. Locals sat reading newspapers, and a few tourists like us were already there, chatting softly or sipping coffee. The place was more than half full—a sign that the food might be as good as it smelled. We ordered a typical Polish breakfast—fresh bread rolls, eggs, slices of cheese, cottage cheese, and tea. A meal is simple in presentation but rich in comfort.
Walking into the Heart of Sopot: Bohaterów Monte Cassino
After breakfast, we stepped back out into the daylight and began walking toward the main pedestrian street of Sopot—Bohaterów Monte Cassino Street, often affectionately called “Monciak.”
This iconic street is the beating heart of Sopot’s tourist life—a long, elegant promenade lined with restaurants, art galleries, souvenir shops, boutique stores, cafés, and colorful buildings. It stretches from Sopot town to the famous wooden pier by the sea, drawing both locals and travelers alike into its buzzing atmosphere.
As we entered the street, we were met by a lively crowd, mostly tourists. The restaurants and cafes were already filling up for lunch. Street performers played soft music, and the scent of grilled seafood, waffles, and freshly brewed coffee floated in the air. Couples strolled hand in hand, families laughed with children, and travelers like us paused often to admire the architecture or take pictures.
Sopot was already revealing its spirit—a town that balances elegance with ease, where the sea is always near, and time seems to slow down just enough to let you breathe. And this was just the beginning.
Sopot’s Charms: From Bubbles and Childhood to the Molo and Memories
As we strolled along Bohaterów Monte Cassino Street, a wave of cheerful scenes unfolded before us. It seemed that balls with colorful stripes and balloons with cartoon faces were the trending joy among children that day. Several young men and women were selling them, their stalls dotted along the walkway like patches of joy. The sight struck a nostalgic chord in me, reminding me of my childhood love for tennis balls, with which we played endless games of cricket in the dusty lanes of Sindh. Funny how a simple object can travel through time and bring you back to a place thousands of miles away.
Among the crowd, a small child was perched high on the shoulders of their father, giggling with delight. We passed through an open square where misty sprays of water emerged gently in the area, clearly installed to help people cool off in warmer weather. On that cloudy, cool day, the sprays danced in the air without any takers, but we could imagine the joy they must bring on a hot summer afternoon.
Zakład Balneologiczny w Sopocie – The Healing House
As we continued our walk, a grand building caught our attention—the Zakład Balneologiczny w Sopocie. This elegant structure, built in 1903, is part of Sopot’s historic spa complex. The word balneologiczny relates to balneology, the science of therapeutic bathing and mineral springs. This center has long been used for health treatments involving seawater, iodine-rich air, and therapeutic mud, forming part of the city’s heritage as a European seaside health resort.
Even the architecture seemed to radiate calm—arched windows, red roof tiles, and a quiet dignity. Once inside, people undergo treatments for respiratory ailments, joint pains, and skin conditions. The building stands as a testament to Sopot’s past as a wellness haven, attracting not just tourists but those in search of healing.
Arrival at Molo: The Icon of Sopot
Eventually, we reached Molo, the most famous landmark in Sopot. The name itself made us laugh—it reminded us instantly of the Sindhi drama character “Molo” from classic PTV days, portrayed by the legendary Salahuddin Tunio. That single word carried us back to the scent of rural Sindh evenings and slow-moving family dramas on black-and-white television. We exchanged a smile—how memory never asks for visas to cross borders.
Back to Sopot’s Molo: this is the longest wooden pier in Europe, stretching over 511 meters (1,677 feet) into the Baltic Sea. It was originally built in 1827, not just for ships but as a place of leisure and sea air therapy. Even today, Molo serves as a beloved public promenade, attracting visitors for seaside walks, photo shoots, and panoramic views of the bay.
Before stepping onto the pier, we passed through a well-maintained garden, adorned with trimmed bushes, flowers, and walking paths. It was serene and picturesque, offering perfect frames for memorable photos, which, of course, we took. Even the tourists around us seemed caught in a shared moment of joy, clicking away and soaking up the beauty.
A Place of Grandeur: Church, Fountain, and the Grand Hotel
This area around the pier felt like a cultural and architectural bouquet. Just nearby stood:
- Kościół Garnizonowy pw. św. Jerzego (St. George’s Church) – a striking neo-Gothic red-brick church, built in the early 20th century. Its sharp spire reached into the cloudy sky.
- Fontanna Jasia Rybaka (Fisherman Jas Fountain) – a whimsical fountain with a sculpture of a young fisherman holding a fish. It added a playful charm to the square and was surrounded by children trying to touch the water.
- Sofitel Grand Sopot Hotel – a historic, luxurious hotel that has hosted politicians, artists, writers, and film stars since 1927. With its white façade and royal presence, it stands proudly by the sea like a palace guarding the shore.
Despite the cloudy sky, the day remained dry. The absence of rain let us roam freely, and the wind from the sea only added freshness to our senses. Everything—from misty water fountains to the wooden Molo, to laughing at memories from old TV shows—felt like layers of meaning folding into the day.
Sopot Pier and a Ticket to Hel
The sea, full of memories, mist, and a ferry to the farthest edge.
A Walk Down Memory Lane – From Sopot to Brighton
As we stepped onto the long wooden stretch of Sopot Pier (Molo w Sopocie), I was unexpectedly flooded with a familiar feeling. It reminded me of my visit to Brighton Pier in the UK years ago with my cousin Aijaz Ahmad. The sound of waves under our feet, the seagulls hovering above, and the horizon stretching far into the mist—it was nostalgia wrapped in sea breeze.
Though Brighton had a louder, more carnival-like spirit with arcade games and fair rides, Sopot was calm, elegant, and deeply rooted in nature. Yet both piers offered something priceless: the feeling of being momentarily suspended between land and sea, between past and present.
A Living Canvas – Beach, Boats, and People
On either side of the pier, the golden beaches of Sopot were lively with people, despite the chilly breeze. Children ran barefoot in the sand, couples held hands wrapped in summer jackets, and photographers framed perfect shots against the open sea. There was a sense of quiet celebration in the air, perhaps a tribute to the fleeting days of summer.
Near the edge of the pier, our eyes caught a majestic, old sailing ship docked beside the planks. Its wooden masts and decorative hull gave it the appearance of a historic galleon, like something out of a storybook. People were boarding it—maybe it offered short sightseeing cruises, or possibly a sea-themed café or bar on board. Whatever its function, it added charm and mystery to the setting.
Digital Souvenirs – Capturing Moments at #Sopot
As is tradition these days, we couldn’t leave without a visit to the #Sopot sign, where tourists were taking turns capturing selfies, couple shots, and group memories. We took our own pictures too—smiling, laughing, and holding up peace signs under the cloudy sky.
Sharing those moments online might be a modern ritual, but the joy was timeless. It’s fascinating how these simple landmarks—hashtags in physical form—become symbols of connection, of being part of a global community of travelers.
To Hel and Beyond – A Journey Begins
And then came the most anticipated part of the day: buying our ferry tickets to the Hel Peninsula. The name “Hel” always raises eyebrows, especially for English speakers, but what lay ahead was no inferno—it was a peaceful and narrow sandbar, home to small towns, pine forests, coastal trails, and clean beaches stretching along the Baltic Sea.
We bought our tickets with excitement, knowing that we were soon to set sail toward a place at once geographically isolated and emotionally freeing. The ferry would offer us a different perspective of the Polish coastline and a bit of adventure on open waters.
With our ferry schedule confirmed and hearts light from a day well spent in Sopot, we turned to the sea, ready to cross toward Hel, the peninsula where sky meets land in a long, sandy embrace.
From the Ferry to Hel
A journey across water, memories, and a quiet celebration at the edge of the map.
Sailing Toward the Edge – The Baltic Beckons
The ferry glided through the calm yet deeply mysterious waters of the Baltic Sea, cutting gentle ripples as it carried us forward. The journey took a little more than an hour, yet it felt both timeless and fleeting. Along the way, we passed ships, sailboats, and small speedboats, zipping like dragonflies across the water. Watching them brought back memories of another sea, another time—Sydney, and those thrilling boat rides with my cousin Altaf Ahmad. The oceans might be far apart, but memories carry their own tides.
Among the passengers on board, a familiar language floated into our ears—Swedish. For a moment, Imran and I exchanged glances and smiled. A little piece of home had followed us here, in words and intonations we knew so well. It reminded us that the world, despite its vastness, often folds itself into familiar corners.
Arrival in Hel – A Unique Corner of the World
When the ferry finally docked, we stepped onto land with the excitement of arriving somewhere both mythic and real. And it was real indeed. Hel—a name that confuses, amuses, and charms in equal measure—welcomed us with its warm breeze, brown buildings, and cheerful streets alive with movement.
As soon as I checked in online, I received a message from Syed Sajjad Hussain Jahania, a thoughtful writer and observer of life, who described Hel as “a unique corner on the map of the world.” That phrase stayed with me. It wasn’t just a location—it was a feeling. A rare intersection of land, sea, and serenity.
A Town of Contrasts – Sun, Sand, and Color
Hel revealed itself like a painting half in sunlight and half in shadow. The sky played a game of contrasts, where clouds drifted slowly, but the sun occasionally peeked through, lending everything a golden glow. The brown and beige buildings were modest, yet charming. Children ran freely, their laughter mingling with the whispers of the sea breeze. The murals and wall paintings added life to the stone—a splash of artistry on this narrow peninsula.
Although the day wasn’t ideal for sunbathing—the chill in the air discouraged any swimsuits—there were still plenty of people at the beach. Some stood with their toes in the cold Baltic water, while others walked hand-in-hand on the sandy wooden paths built to ease the strolls across dunes. For a moment, it felt like a summer trying to bloom in the arms of spring.
Sealife and Smiles – Of Seals and Souvenirs
Not far from the pier, we noticed signs pointing to one of Hel’s most popular attractions—the Fokarium, often called the “Seal Zoo.” This place houses rescued grey seals and educates the public about marine life and conservation efforts in the Baltic Sea. Although we didn’t go inside right away, its presence brought joy, especially to the children around us who stared at the entrance in anticipation.
Near the beach, a large photo frame stood facing the sea—a perfect spot for travelers to pause, pose, and preserve their moment in Hel. And of course, we didn’t miss the chance to click a few of our own.
Hel’s Hidden Treasures
Lunch in a ship, laughter in love-locks, and a missed chance on the Highway to Hel
Lunch Inside a Ship – The “Captain Morgan” Experience
By afternoon, our feet needed rest and our stomachs demanded attention. We came across a uniquely styled restaurant named “Captain Morgan.” From the outside, it looked interesting, but stepping inside was like boarding a 17th-century pirate ship—a space built to blur the lines between history and fantasy.
Everything inside the restaurant was made of rich, aged wood, with dim lantern lights, nautical ropes, steering wheels, rusty compasses, model ships, and pirate flags adding to the immersive feel. The ceiling had low beams, giving you the feeling of being in the belly of an old merchant ship crossing the Atlantic or Baltic centuries ago. The tables were heavy, wooden, and sturdy, as if they had sailed across storms.
We ordered a seafood lunch, which, surrounded by maritime relics, tasted even more authentic. As the warm aroma of grilled fish, creamy fried potatoes filled with creamy sauce, different salads mixed with salt in the air, Imran and I had one of our deep talks—about travel, past memories, life back in Sindh, our future plans, and just about everything in between. It was more than just a meal—it was a shared moment of quiet reflection in the heart of a tourist town.
A Walk Through Souvenirs and Stories
After lunch, we wandered into souvenir shops that lined the charming streets of Hel. There was a cozy feel to everything—fridge magnets was enough for me but it was lovely to see postcards, sailor hats, tiny wooden boats, amber jewelry, and sea-themed art. Each item carried a piece of the Baltic Sea and the simplicity of coastal life.
Nearby stood the Fisheries Museum (Muzeum Rybołówstwa w Helu), located in a former gothic-style church. Though we didn’t go inside, even from the outside, its historical vibe intrigued us. We could see black and yellow fishing boats docked nearby, quietly narrating the town’s dependence on the sea for centuries.
Love, Humor, and the “I Love Hel” Hashtag
One of the most charming (and humorous) installations we came across was the “I ❤ Hel” structure—a heart-shaped metal frame with the town’s name. Though innocent in the local language, for tourists, it often evoked a smile or even laughter. This spot had become a symbol of romantic declarations; dozens of padlocks hung from its mesh, left behind by couples from around the world.
I took a few cheerful pictures there and chuckled. It was a blend of funny language, coincidence, and heartfelt emotion, all wrapped into one. (Continues)
Click here for Part-1,
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Abdullah Soomro, penname Abdullah Usman Morai, hailing from Moro town of Sindh, province of Pakistan, is based in Stockholm Sweden. Currently he is working as Groundwater Engineer in Stockholm Sweden. He did BE (Agriculture) from Sindh Agriculture University Tando Jam and MSc water systems technology from KTH Stockholm Sweden as well as MSc Management from Stockholm University. Beside this he also did masters in journalism and economics from Shah Abdul Latif University Khairpur Mirs, Sindh. He is author of a travelogue book named ‘Musafatoon’. His second book is in process. He writes articles from time to time. A frequent traveler, he also does podcast on YouTube with channel name: VASJE Podcast.
