From the deck of the boat, when my eyes fell upon the SNP Bridge, I was instantly reminded of Lalya and the Dadu-Moro Bridge back in Sindh
By Abdullah Usman Morai | Sweden
Journey to Bratislava: A Seamless Border Crossing
The next morning, we got ready, had breakfast and water, and booked a taxi to the FlixBus terminal, from where we were to catch a bus to Bratislava, the capital of Slovakia. At the station, we saw many buses lined up for different routes, with both locals and tourists waiting for their respective rides. In Europe, FlixBus operates extensive long-distance routes.
As the journey began, we enjoyed the green surroundings along the way and kept up our conversation. In many fields, wheat crops stood ripe and ready for harvest. The sky was mostly clear, with only light patches of fog visible in a few areas. We didn’t even realize when we crossed the border from Hungary into Slovakia — the transition was that smooth and seamless.
Arrival at Nivy Tower: First Steps in a New Capital
The journey took two hours, but with our ongoing conversations, the time flew by unnoticed. The FlixBus dropped us off in the underground parking of a large shopping mall called Nivy Tower in Bratislava. As we stepped off the bus, we noticed other passengers still seated while many more were queued up to board.
Stepping out of the bus, we said to ourselves, “Welcome to Slovakia!”
We wandered around the mall for a bit before taking a taxi to reach our hotel — a large boat named Botel Gracia moored alongside the Danube River.
Botel Gracia: Life on the Danube
Upon arriving at the boat-hotel, the lovely receptionist greeted us and remarked how wise it was of us to check in online; otherwise, the process could have taken much longer. She then handed us the room keys.
The room was small but clean, equipped with all the necessary amenities. Through the window of our room, we could see the water of the Danube River just a meter or two below. For some reason, it reminded me of being on a boat anchored near the Dadu-Moro bridge over the Indus River. The water beneath the boat flowed rapidly and constantly.
From our room window, we could also see the Most SNP Bridge, known locally as “Most” in Slovak, which simply means “bridge.” This particular bridge was opened for public use in 1972.
A Day in Bratislava – A Nostalgic and Serene Walk
We had only one day to explore the city of Bratislava, so there was much to do and people were naturally in a bit of a rush. We quickly left our room and began exploring the city. As we wandered through Bratislava, I was reminded of Moro’s childhood, when my elder brother Farooq and I would eagerly read travelogues by Mr. Ishaq Ansari in Ibrat magazine. He had written those during his PhD at the University of Economics in Bratislava between 1991 and 1995. We not only read those travel pieces with great interest but also collected and filed them serially.
At that time, Czechoslovakia was still one country, which later peacefully separated in 1993 into two nations: the Czech Republic and Slovakia. According to Mr. Ansari, both countries came into existence without any conflict or bloodshed.
Bratislava’s Old Town: Broad Streets and Gentle Charm
Although there were many tourists and locals in the city, the population still felt sparse, and the atmosphere was peaceful. Our hotel was located in such a convenient spot that everything seemed within walking distance. We began heading toward the old part of the city – the Old Town. The stone-paved streets were broad and spacious, perfect for strolling, and they were lined with many trees that added to the liveliness of the surroundings.
The restaurants and cafés there were bustling with people. We walked around until we reached Hviezdoslavovo námestie, a prominent square in Bratislava. In Slovak, “námestie” means “square.” There were several old-style buildings in the area, and the beautiful structure of the Slovak National Theatre also stood out. Sculptures and fountains added to the charm of the square. Under the shade of the trees, restaurant tables and chairs were set outside, most of them occupied – it seemed people enjoyed sitting in the open air. We, too, eventually found a seat under the trees at one such restaurant.
Moments Under the Trees: Life’s Simple Pleasures
The sunlight falling in patches on the cobbled street looked like a work of art – and truly, it was nature’s own masterpiece. There was a deep sense of peace in the air. The soft conversations of people, the clinking of cutlery, and the occasional chime of glasses created a symphony of life. Even the birds seemed joyful, chirping from time to time.
While we were still waiting for our meal, four girls dressed entirely in black abayas or hijabs passed by. Only their eyes were visible – they appeared to be from some Arab country. They were taking photos when a slightly tipsy man made a joke about them. His wife immediately held his arm, stopped him, and scolded him. We appreciated how one woman stood up for others like that. Regardless, the girls seemed engrossed in enjoying themselves and their environment.
Wandering Without a Map: Discovering the City’s Soul
After our meal, we began wandering the narrow lanes of the old town, aimlessly and without a map, simply observing and trying to understand the layout. Compared to the old towns of many other European cities, Bratislava’s Old Town felt quite large and open. Beautiful faces passed by in every direction. Compared to Budapest, the weather here seemed cooler.
While walking, we came across four well-built Jewish men, recognizable by their religious caps and the traditional curls of their sidelocks. They had smiles on their faces, perhaps laughing over something among themselves.
A Surprise Newspaper Headline: Starring Us
As we strolled further, a young man suddenly handed something to us. To our surprise, it was a copy of a newspaper called Bratislava, and the front page featured a photo of Imran and me! The boy had edited it into the paper as a playful surprise. It genuinely astonished us.
We ended up chatting with him – he was a teenage boy from Ukraine. After the war, many Ukrainians migrated to various countries across Europe. While the host countries provide them with basic necessities, many of them still prefer to do something meaningful rather than remain idle. This teen’s little gig in Bratislava was to surprise people like this and earn a small amount. He didn’t force anyone to pay – if someone gave money, fine; if not, still fine.
Tea, Souvenirs, and the Return of the Girls in Black
As we continued walking, we browsed through a few souvenir shops and picked up a couple of items as mementos. Later, we sat again for some tea and water at a café with outdoor seating. That café and others around it were also quite full. While we sat there, we noticed many heads turning in one direction – people were clearly observing something special. Curious, we looked back too – it was the same four Arab girls again, walking and taking pictures.
Their presence perhaps felt unique in that environment, which is why everyone’s attention turned to them. The girls might have sensed it too, but they remained absorbed in enjoying the moment, happily taking their pictures. I noticed how their attire wasn’t hindering their ability to explore or enjoy the experience at all.
Primate’s Square: Mist, History, and Midday Magic
Eventually, after tea, we wandered into Primates’ Square, another beautiful area of the city. Gradually, the city became more crowded, beauty and charm now flaunting themselves even more. Embassies of several countries were also nearby. In the square, there was a historic well from the medieval era that was once used for punishing people. To help people cope with the heat, mist-spray fountains had been installed. People stood under them to enjoy the cooling sprays and refresh themselves. We, too, like drenched roosters, stood under the mist and thoroughly enjoyed the moment.
Exploring the Medieval Charm of Bratislava
Michael’s Gate and the Music of the Streets
Here in Bratislava, the medieval Michael’s Gate still stands—a remnant of the city’s original fortifications and the last surviving city gate from that era. Not far from it, at the Pigeons’ Fountain Square (Vtáčia fontána), an elderly musician was playing his instrument, trying to earn his living. While wandering through the city, the towering St. Martin’s Cathedral also catches the eye—it’s one of the city’s prominent landmarks.
The Path to Bratislava Castle
After walking through the city and feeling a bit tired, we decided it was time to visit the famous Bratislava Castle, which was located nearby. As we started walking in its direction, we noticed some tourist groups heading there as well. One of the guides was explaining the history of the castle to his group, but we quietly took a different route and entered through one of the gates ahead of them.
Architecture and Atmosphere of the Castle
The Bratislava Castle is one of the city’s most iconic landmarks, built on a hilltop near the Danube River. The structure is almost square in shape, with a tower at each corner. Its upper part is painted red while the lower half remains white. Inside the castle grounds, rows of chairs suggested that various events and programs were occasionally held there. We slowly made our way to the topmost part of the castle, where many visitors were enjoying the view and capturing photographs. A few young women were likely making videos for TikTok or Instagram.
The Castle View: A Feast for the Eyes
From the top of the castle, the view of the city was simply breathtaking: the Danube River flowing below, the Most SNP (UFO Bridge) crossing over it, a vast forest stretching far into the distance, behind which rose a hill, then the sky, clouds, and sunlight gently streaming through them. It was a mesmerizing sight. We spent a lot of time up there, taking in the surroundings and capturing memorable photos.
Life Inside the Castle Grounds
From that high vantage point, we could also see the castle’s lower sections. The castle clearly dominates the area, and we noticed some statues scattered around, along with a museum and a cafeteria. However, we weren’t particularly interested in visiting the museum, so we enjoyed the castle just from the outside.
A Stroll Through the Castle Garden
In another section of the castle, there was a beautiful garden, perfect for memorable photos. Some tourists were already taking pictures there, and we waited for our turn.
A Call from Dr. Danka
While we were still in the castle, I received a phone call from Dr. Danka, who had been my supervisor during an internship at the Global Water Partnership in Stockholm. She now works with the Water Ministry of Slovakia. Danka had left the office and was on her way home. She asked what our plans were for the next day and whether we could meet, but I told her we’d be heading to Vienna early in the morning. After exchanging greetings with her, we exited the castle from the other side, crossed the road via a small walking bridge, and once again entered the Old Town.
Evening Wandering in the Old Town
Nearby, we came across a Jewish cultural museum. We also noticed that in some parts of the city, shades and umbrellas were installed along the streets for comfort and aesthetics. As evening fell, we wandered through the Old Town again. When we started seeing the same streets repeatedly, we realized we had already explored most of what there was to see. So, we quietly sat down on chairs placed outside a cafeteria, enjoyed some tea and biscuits, watched the passersby, soaked in the atmosphere, and had a relaxed conversation.
A Rest Before Bratislava’s Nightlife
Feeling a bit tired, we decided to return to our hotel on the boat, rest for a while, and then come back out at night to enjoy dinner and the nightlife. Back at the hotel, I was taking a few pictures when a young man approached me and kindly offered to take photos of me. Inside the hotel, that same boy was now preparing to take over the reception duty for the night. Smiling, he said, “From tonight onward, I’m on duty—if you need anything, just let me know.” From our room window, we could see the river traffic of boats still moving across the Danube. It was around 8 or 8:30 p.m., but still quite bright outside.
The City Illuminated
After resting briefly, we headed out again, and the entire atmosphere had transformed. The castle and UFO/SNP Bridge were now glowing under large spotlights, each presented in a unique and captivating way. The reflections of the lights in the water were especially beautiful. Re-energized, we wandered around again, took more memorable night-time photos, and saw many young couples enjoying the romantic setting.
The Symbol of the City: Čumil / choomil the Sewer Worker
As they say, “The procession always ends at the mosque,” we returned once more to the Old Town, this time for dinner.
One of the must-see landmarks for tourists in Bratislava is the statue of Čumil, also located in the Old Town. It has become a symbol of the city. So, after dinner, we went to see it. The statue represents a sewer worker who, after working in the filthy underground, has emerged for a breath of fresh air—only his head protrudes from the manhole, and he smiles mischievously at passersby.
A similar statue also exists in Slussen, Stockholm. The statue reminded me of some tragic incidents reported in Sindh’s newspapers where sanitation workers died from toxic gases while working in sewers. Nowadays, in the modern world, such incidents are avoidable with advanced gas-detecting devices that give loud warnings whenever dangerous gases are present.
A Quiet Night in the Bar
After seeing Čumil, we noticed the streets becoming quieter and people moving indoors into bars. So, instead of aimlessly wandering, we thought it best to sit and enjoy the atmosphere. We found a spot at a bar with outdoor seating. In Slovakia, smoking is still allowed in bars, though cafés and restaurants have banned it. The bar we chose had a lively atmosphere, but the strong smell of beer and cigarettes lingered. We sat there for quite some time, talking about everything under the sky.
A Night Walk Across the Danube
Eventually, it felt like the best time to head back, so we said goodbye to the vibrant faces and warm atmosphere and made our way out. It was already quite late. However, we decided to take a night walk across the SNP Bridge to the other side of the Danube. So we continued on the pedestrian path, and after some time, we found ourselves on the opposite bank, looking back at our boat-hotel from across the river.
There, we sat on a bench, quietly enjoying the glittering, fast-flowing waters of the Danube, the reflections of the bridge lights, and the glowing castle above. The night air was peaceful, with only an occasional distant sound breaking the silence. While walking back across the bridge, we were barely halfway when we saw the castle lights slowly begin to turn off, one by one.
Farewell to Bratislava
When we finally returned to the hotel, it was around midnight or 12:30 a.m.
Due to the exhaustion of the entire day, we fell asleep quickly.
The Next Morning and Departure Breakfast With a View
The next morning, after freshening up and brushing our teeth, we went to the upper deck of the boat, where breakfast was arranged for the guests staying in the hotel. When we reached the top, there was quite a crowd, but we managed to find our table and then went one by one to get our food.
From the deck of the boat, when my eyes fell upon the SNP Bridge, I was instantly reminded of Lalya and the Dadu-Moro Bridge back in Sindh. I thought to myself that if this boat had been anchored near the Dadu-Moro Bridge in the Indus River, Chacha Abdullah Jaisar would surely have sent breakfast over. (Continues)
Click here for Part-1, Part-2,
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Abdullah Soomro, penname Abdullah Usman Morai, hailing from Moro town of Sindh, province of Pakistan, is based in Stockholm Sweden. Currently he is working as Groundwater Engineer in Stockholm Sweden. He did BE (Agriculture) from Sindh Agriculture University Tando Jam and MSc water systems technology from KTH Stockholm Sweden as well as MSc Management from Stockholm University. Beside this he also did masters in journalism and economics from Shah Abdul Latif University Khairpur Mirs, Sindh. He is author of a travelogue book named ‘Musafatoon’. His second book is in process. He writes articles from time to time.
Very informative and interesting article