One Continent, Two Wanderers

Budapest, the capital of Hungary, lies on both sides of the Danube River. The hilly side is called Buda, and the flatter side is Pest

Budapest is also known as the “City of Bridges” due to the eight different bridges spanning the Danube River

By Abdullah Usman Morai | Sweden

Our First Evening in Budapest

During the annual summer holidays of 2023, Dr. Imran Jamali and I began discussing where we could travel together. After a few ideas, we decided to fly from Stockholm to Budapest, then travel by bus onward to Bratislava, Vienna, and Prague, and finally fly back from Prague. Once the plan was finalized, we went ahead and booked our flights, buses, and hotels.

One thing I’ve learned through extensive travel is to pack as light as possible—it minimizes unnecessary stress. So, both of us relied solely on our backpacks, the type you can carry on your shoulder.

Finally, the day of departure arrived. On July 11, we reached Stockholm’s Arlanda Airport, and our journey officially began. After a roughly two-and-a-half-hour flight, we landed safely at Budapest Airport, where our pre-booked taxi was already waiting.

As soon as we got into the taxi, the driver started speaking to us in Swedish! We found out that he had lived for many years in a town near Malmö, in southern Sweden. Some of his family members still lived there. But due to Sweden’s cold climate, he had eventually moved back to his home country, Hungary. During our ride to Hotel Gartner—our accommodation in Budapest—he chatted with us the whole time. His words revealed a deep nostalgia for Sweden.

Budapest, the capital of Hungary, lies on both sides of the Danube River. The hilly side is called Buda, and the flatter side is Pest. Our hotel was located on the Pest side. By the time we arrived, night had already fallen, but it wasn’t too late. After checking in and dropping off our bags, we stepped out to explore the neighborhood and grab dinner.

We walked aimlessly until we found a restaurant, where we decided to dine. Many people were enjoying their meals and sipping wine and beer. The night air was pleasantly cool. As we were eating, I received a message from our dear friend Asif Aziz Mehranvi on WhatsApp. He asked if we had arrived safely. We had a brief conversation and agreed to meet the following evening after his office hours.

Imran and I stayed at the restaurant for quite a while, talking about life, reminiscing, and soaking in the atmosphere. Eventually, we left and returned to the hotel. At the front desk, I picked up a city map and a tourist guide. Reading through it, discussing plans, and talking quietly, we slowly drifted into sleep.

The First Day in Budapest: Walking Through History

The next morning, after a hearty breakfast, we set off to explore the city. We had decided to mostly explore on foot, as walking through an unfamiliar place with a map in hand, finding famous spots, and making spontaneous discoveries brings a different kind of joy.

I had visited Budapest once before as a student, during an international conference on water issues, traveling from Stockholm. But at that time, I didn’t get a chance to explore the city properly. This time, I was determined to see as much as I could.

Historic Erzsébet Körút and Oktogon Roundabout

We left the hotel and began walking in one direction. Eventually, we found ourselves on Erzsébet Körút, or Elisabeth Boulevard, one of the major and busiest streets in Budapest. The traffic was heavy. Not far ahead, we reached the large Oktogon roundabout, beneath which lies the Oktogon Metro Station—part of the city’s underground railway system.

Interestingly, this metro line, known in Hungarian as the Földalatti, is the first underground railway on mainland Europe and the second-oldest in the world after the London Underground.

Statues and Strolls on Andrássy Avenue

From the roundabout, we turned left onto Andrássy Avenue and continued our walk. On one side of the road stood a statue of Ady Endre, and on the other side was Mór Jókai’s statue—both renowned Hungarian writers. The streets behind these monuments were lined with leafy trees and dotted with restaurants and cafés on both sides.

Due to the summer holidays, tourists from all over Europe had flocked to Budapest. The streets were lively, filled with cheerful faces and beautiful people from various parts of the world. As we walked along this boulevard, we also passed the grand Hungarian State Opera House, which was an impressive sight.

Deák Ferenc Square and the Aquarium Klub

Along the way, we saw many other elegant buildings. We kept walking until we reached a spacious area known as Deák Ferenc Square, which is part of the city center. Nearby, we noticed a small pool of water. Despite its name, the surrounding area is called the Aquarium Klub, though there’s no trace of aquatic life here. Instead, it’s a public space used for art exhibitions, concerts, events, and dining. It’s a place for people to sit, relax, or socialize during free time or when taking a break. Since it was still early morning and there wasn’t much crowd, we simply passed through.

St. Stephen’s Basilica and the Buzz of Tourists

Eventually, we made our way to St. Stephen’s Basilica, one of Budapest’s most famous landmarks. We didn’t go inside, but spent some time walking around the square in front of it, taking pictures and soaking in the vibe. The square and the adjacent streets were full of cafés, restaurants, and souvenir shops, teeming with tourists.

By the Danube: Encounters and Reflections

Gradually, the heat began to rise, but nonetheless, we set off on foot toward the Danube River and reached it shortly. There, a local young man and a South Asian-looking girl were selling tickets for a boat ride. We assumed the girl was Indian, so I asked her if she was from India. She replied that her ancestors had migrated to Mauritius a long time ago, so she was from there, studying at a university in Budapest, and working part-time during her summer vacation.

We didn’t intend to take the boat ride, so we simply enjoyed the majestic view of the river and then returned. Budapest has an extensive public transport system, including underground trains, buses, boats, and trams, which can be seen running throughout the city. The sound of metal wheels clashing on the rails is a constant backdrop.

Bridges of Budapest: Chain Bridge and Its Story

Budapest is also known as the “City of Bridges” due to the eight different bridges spanning the Danube River. We visited the famous Chain Bridge, which opened in 1849 to connect the hilly Buda side and the flat Pest side of the city. Near the bridge, a designated spot had been set up for tourists to take photos, so we stood in line and took some pictures there. Because of the heat, we had to increase our water intake.

Crossing the Danube: Bus Ride to Buda

Ideally, we should have walked across the bridge to reach the Buda Hills, but due to the intense heat and the fact that the bridge was undergoing maintenance during our visit, we skipped walking over it. Instead, we boarded a bus, crossed the bridge, and arrived on the Buda side.

The Castle Bus Experience

From there, one can either hike uphill or take a cable-car-type railway that comfortably takes visitors to the top. For convenience, we purchased a card for the official Budapest Castle Bus, which operates like a hop-on-hop-off service, allowing visitors to get off at famous and historic landmarks, explore, and then board the next bus to continue the journey. It wasn’t a typical bus, but rather a small open-sided minibus seating eight to ten people. In case of rain, plastic coverings could be pulled down to protect passengers.

We were the first to board the bus, and soon it filled up. The driver didn’t waste time and turned the vehicle at the roundabout in front of the Buda Castle Tunnel, and the journey began. The route was slightly winding. Soon, from a distance, we could see Fisherman’s Bastion, where many tourists were walking around. However, the first stop of the bus—where passengers could disembark—was further up.

Fisherman’s Bastion and Matthias Church

At that first stop, all the passengers got off, and new tourists joined. According to the map and guide, this stop was designated for Fisherman’s Bastion and Matthias Church. There’s a square there with the Holy Trinity Column, and opposite it stands the church, which we only viewed from the outside before heading to Fisherman’s Bastion. From its terraces, one can enjoy a spectacular bird’s-eye view of Budapest, including the Danube River, Chain Bridge, St. Stephen’s Basilica, and the Hungarian Parliament Building. The place was bustling with tourists from around the world. (Continues)

Read: From Sunrise to Summer Joy

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Abdullah Soomro, penname Abdullah Usman Morai, hailing from Moro town of Sindh, province of Pakistan, is based in Stockholm Sweden. Currently he is working as Groundwater Engineer in Stockholm Sweden. He did BE (Agriculture) from Sindh Agriculture University Tando Jam and MSc water systems technology from KTH Stockholm Sweden as well as MSc Management from Stockholm University. Beside this he also did masters in journalism and economics from Shah Abdul Latif University Khairpur Mirs, Sindh. He is author of a travelogue book named ‘Musafatoon’. His second book is in process. He writes articles from time to time.