In Indus-Kohistan, one valley still holds onto a centuries-old funerary tradition

Zulfiqar Ali Kalhoro

I have always been fascinated by carved wooden coffins and grave railings in northern Pakistan, particularly in regions such as Swat-Kohistan, Dir-Kohistan and Indus-Kohistan in Khyber Pakhtunkhwa. Since 2000, I have been documenting these wooden funerary monuments. I have visited nearly all the notable valleys and villages in these areas where grave railings are found. Each region — Swat-Kohistan, Dir-Kohistan and Indus-Kohistan — features a distinctive decorative style. These carved wooden coffins not only reflect the identity of the dignitaries buried within them but also showcase the craftsmanship of the artisans who created them. Many areas have numerous grave railings that have yet to be properly documented. One such valley, known for its ornately carved grave railings, is Harban Valley.

Harban is located in the Upper Kohistan district of Khyber Pakhtunkhwa. Harban Nala, a tributary of the Indus River, lies on its left bank and can be accessed from the Karakoram Highway. A road branches off the Karakoram Highway and leads to Harban-Kot, the oldest and final settlement in the Harban Valley. Travelling along the winding road through Harban Valley is an adventurous journey as the road passes through a series of charming villages.

Harban-Kot, approximately 14 kilometers from Shatial Bazaar, is known for its old houses, security towers and intricately carved wooden coffins. During the British era, Harban Valley was part of Yaghestan (the Country of the Free or the Rebel Region). The main communities in the Harban Valley include the Shin, Yeshkun and Kamin.

As visitors enter the valley, the first things that grab their attention are the watchtowers that rise above the village landscapes. These towers, built for protection against enemies, are also remarkable for their intricate wood carvings, which reflect the artistry of their builders. Nowhere else in Indus-Kohistan can one find as many towers as in Harban Valley.

In addition to its security towers, the valley is home to traditional houses constructed using stone and wood. These structures are are sometimes flanked by watchtowers. They can be seen throughout the valley, from Masaring — the first village — to Harban-Kot, the last. Each village features its own distinctive architecture, often noted for their ornate carvings. Among all these settlements, the oldest is Harban-Kot, where several wooden grave railings — both decorated and undecorated — are also found. I visited all the principal villages in Harban Valley to document these funerary structures.

Grave railings are prominent cultural markers in the valleys of both Lower and Upper Kohistan. I have explored several valleys in Indus-Kohistan — including Seo, Dubair, Pattan, Sazin and Harban — to document carved wooden grave railings. These coffins have survived particularly well in the Seo and Harban valleys. In other areas they are often in a poor state of preservation. In Seo Valley, for instance, many old grave railings lie in disrepair, with wooden planks scattered across burial sites. Only two of the railings there are in good condition. Most are simple and undecorated.

The tradition of constructing grave railings continues in Indus-Kohistan, though in recent years they are often left undecorated.

In the villages of Sigemos, Masaring, Daargah, Theeng, Babeny, Darli and Harban-Kot in the Harban Valley, one can see both decorated and undecorated wooden grave railings. Harban-Kot is particularly notable for its elaborately carved examples. These grave railings are scattered throughout the villages. The most striking ones have been constructed using two or three decorative planks. The planks bear a variety of designs, although floral motifs are the most common.

Harban is the only valley in Indus-Kohistan that still preserves some of the most remarkable carved wooden coffins, showcasing the craftsmanship of local artisans.

Typically, these railings consist of three planks, with the corner and central posts featuring distinctive turret-like finials. They are usually placed on a base plank, which may be either plain or carved. In some cases, the corner posts are set directly into the ground without a base plank, or placed on a raised wall, platform or stones. Undecorated grave railings generally carry four plain posts. Occasionally, the number increases to six, with two additional middle posts topped by four-legged turrets. In decorative grave railings, the six posts often feature a scroll pattern carved into their outer surfaces. The central plank frequently depicts a lotus or other floral motif, while the upper and lower planks typically display floral scrolls that synchronize with those carved on the posts.

A post from one of the grave railings in Harban-Kot displays an S-shaped motif — a design also found on the pillars of old mosques in Indus-Kohistan and in the valleys of the Diamer district in Gilgit-Baltistan. The most prominent example of the S-shaped motif can be seen in the Jamia Masjid in the Seo Valley, where one of the mosque’s pillars is entirely carved with S-shaped patterns on all sides. Another example is found in the Jamia Masjid in Kot village in the Thor Valley of the Diamer district. This mosque, considered the earliest in the valley, has several motifs and symbols linked to pre-Islamic belief systems in the Upper Indus Valley, including regions such as Indus-Kohistan, Dir-Kohistan and Swat-Kohistan.

Sadly, some of the grave railings featuring S-shaped motifs in the Sazin Valley of Upper Kohistan have vanished. Today, no old grave railings remain in the Sazin Valley. The only surviving historical structure is the Jamia Masjid, which is also known for its intricate wooden carvings.

If one compares the corner posts of grave railings in Harban Valley with those in Seo Valley, the posts in Harban are notably more decorative and feature a wider range of floral scrolls and geometric patterns. Such decorative pillars or posts are not found elsewhere in Indus Kohistan, whether in the Lower or Upper Kohistan districts. However, a parallel can be observed in the valleys of Tangir and Darel in the Diamer district of Gilgit-Baltistan.

In Tangir Valley, some of the most impressive decorative grave railings are found in the Mahechar, Khamikot, Faruri, Phaphat and Mushke villages. The most magnificent examples, however, are located in Mushke and Khamikot. Unfortunately, the grave railings in Mahechar, Faruri, Phaphat and Koranga are in a dilapidated state. Khamikot, which served as the main seat of power under Pakhun Wali Khan (1905-1917), who ruled over Tangir, Darel and several other valleys in Indus Kohistan, boasts the most elaborately decorated grave railings in the region.

In Darel Valley, grave railings can be found in the Manikyal Bala, Manikyal Pain, Gayal, Phuguch, Padial and Yeshot villages. Other villages in the valley tend to have undecorated railings.

The turrets of grave railings in Dir-Kohistan vary significantly. In the graveyard of Patrak village, one can observe a wide range of turret designs. Most grave railings here feature fretted panels, whereas those found in Harban are primarily decorative. Some of the most magnificent grave railings in Dir-Kohistan can be seen in Siri Kalkot and the Kumrat Valley. The examples in Thall village are particularly striking and differ noticeably from those in Indus-Kohistan, as they are constructed in a tiered style. It is common to find grave railings in Thall with two or three tiers. Lamoti village also contains a few carved wooden railings, though these are unfortunately in a state of disrepair.

The Utror and Usho valleys in Swat-Kohistan also exhibit a range of grave railing styles. The most commonly seen designs feature fretted panels, along with a variety of posts and turret forms. From Gabral to Ashoran villages, each grave railing has its own distinctive appearance, reflecting the skill and creativity of local wood carvers. Utror village, in particular, is home to some of the most impressive decorative grave railings in Swat-Kohistan.

I have also seen some of the most magnificent grave railings in Kalam town. However, the grave railings in Harban Valley — whether in Masaring village or Kot village — possess their own distinctive appeal and beauty. Harban remains the only valley in Indus-Kohistan that still preserves some of the most remarkable carved wooden coffins, showcasing the craftsmanship of its local artisans.

First published in The News 

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The writer is an anthropologist at the Pakistan Institute of Development Economics, Islamabad. He has authored 17 books on Pakistan’s cultural heritage and anthropology. He tweets @kalhorozulfiqar. He may be contacted at zulfi04@hotmail.com

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