Strangers in Gibraltar and Andalusia – 2

We saw ourselves as two strangers in this fascinating land, eager to explore, learn, and enrich ourselves—not necessarily in wealth, but through experiences and discoveries

By Abdullah Usman Morai

The journey along the Alboran Sea, following the Costa del Sol coastline, took about two hours. It felt as if we had our home with us now, allowing us to stop and rest anywhere or spend the night wherever we pleased, eliminating the need for timely hotel check-ins. The route from Málaga to Gibraltar offered breathtaking views of mountains and the sea. Along the way, we had to pay tolls at four or five points. Many road signs were written in both Spanish and Arabic.

During our journey, we stopped at a petrol station to freshen up, washing our faces and taking a short break. The petrol station had a designated parking area with separate rows for small and large vehicles. It also provided restroom and shower facilities, along with a store where travelers could buy essential supplies. After a brief rest, we resumed our journey.

As we neared the small Spanish town of La Línea de la Concepción, we caught our first glimpse of the famous Rock of Gibraltar. Upon reaching La Línea, we were greeted with a stunning combination of the mountain, city, and sea. A wide pedestrian path had been built along the coast for people to walk, lined with numerous palm trees. We decided that we would take a walk there on our way back.

Approaching the border, we only had to show our passports briefly before being allowed to enter Gibraltar from Spain. The passport control process was not complicated. Now, we had officially crossed from Spain into the British Overseas Territory of Gibraltar. Interestingly, cars here drove on the right side of the road, just like in Spain. However, pedestrian crossings followed British rules, with signs on the pavement instructing people to look left or right before crossing.

As we continued, we occasionally saw the Union Jack flag fluttering, while colorful cottages for tourists were nestled on the hillside overlooking the sea.

A short while later, we entered the Dudley Ward Way Tunnel in Gibraltar, an approximately 500-meter-long passage. Exiting the tunnel, we arrived in Gibraltar’s southern district, known as Europa Point. The first thing that caught our eye was the grand Ibrahim-al-Ibrahim Mosque, also called the King Fahd bin Abdulaziz Al Saud Mosque. This mosque was a gift from King Fahd of Saudi Arabia to the Muslims living in Gibraltar. It is one of the largest mosques in a non-Muslim country and stands as the southernmost mosque in continental Europe. Just a few kilometers beyond the mosque, the Strait of Gibraltar separates Europe from North Africa, with Morocco visible in the distance.

Not far from the mosque, we also spotted the Europa Point Lighthouse, its beacon flashing intermittently.

We parked our camper and, since we were dressed in shorts due to the heat, we put on track pants over them before heading toward the mosque. However, we found the doors locked. Nearby, a group of Moroccans was sitting and chatting. One of them, noticing us looking at the mosque entrance, walked over and greeted us with “Salam.” He reached into his pocket, and before we could ask anything, we inquired whether the mosque was closed. He nodded but then pulled out a set of keys and unlocked the door for us.

Since there was still daylight, we performed ablution and prayed the Asr (afternoon) prayer inside the mosque. The mosque was quite large, with a main prayer hall on what seemed to be the second floor. From the balcony, we could take in breathtaking views of the sea and surrounding landscape. The mosque was built in a truly remarkable location. It had classrooms, halls, accommodations, and separate prayer areas for men and women, along with kitchen facilities.

After leaving the mosque, we walked to the Europa Point Lighthouse, taking in the atmosphere of the surroundings.

It is said that in the year 711 AD, the Berber commander Tariq ibn Ziyad arrived at this very spot with his army of Berber and Arab soldiers. The famous story of him burning his ships after landing originates here. History tells us that following this event, the Muslims ruled over Spain for several centuries, and their influence can still be seen there today. The name “Gibraltar” itself is derived from “Jabal Tariq,” meaning “Mountain of Tariq.”

As the sun began to set, we returned to the mosque once more. Gradually, more and more people arrived. Each new arrival placed their hand over their chest and greeted everyone present with “Salam.” The call to prayer (Adhan) was made, and people began performing their individual prayers.

We were momentarily puzzled, as we were used to starting the congregational (Fard) prayer immediately after the sunset call to prayer. Here, however, people seemed to be performing additional voluntary (Nafl) or Sunnah prayers before the main prayer. Soon, the same young man who had opened the mosque for us and called the Adhan led the congregational prayer.

After the prayer, a few people approached us and directly asked, “Are you from Pakistan?” We replied, “Yes,” which made them happy. Most of them were from Morocco. One elderly man placed his hand on his chest and warmly said, “It is a pleasure to meet you. This is the house of God, where we all stand under the same roof, regardless of which country we are from or what language we speak.”

As we stepped out of the mosque, I asked Zeeshan, “This is the first time I’ve seen people offering voluntary or Sunnah prayers before the obligatory ones after the Maghrib prayer.” Zeeshan explained, “These people are from Morocco, and since most Moroccans follow the Shafi’i school of thought, this is their practice.” This was new information for me. I reflected that travel teaches people many new things.

After leaving the mosque, we headed towards the seaside, where the city lights had started to glow. Near the Europa Point Lighthouse, a few other objects were displayed as war memorials. We debated whether to stay in the parking lot for the night or continue our journey back to Spain. The wind was blowing fiercely, so we decided to leave and retraced our route back to Spain. We drove further until we reached the Manilva region and parked our camper van in the lot of a gas station to have dinner and rest for the night. The camper van had now become our home for this journey.

At the gas station’s shop, we picked up a few supplies. The station offered 24-hour restroom facilities for travelers, which seemed to be a common convenience in Spain. Many people preferred staying overnight in their vehicles at gas stations rather than booking hotels or dealing with the hassle of city accommodations, especially when traveling on long routes. Besides us, a couple of other vehicles and a few large trailers were also parked there. We were tired but needed to eat, so we started cooking dinner. While waiting for the food to be ready, we enjoyed rounds of tea. The night had settled in with a dim glow.

By the time we finished eating and chatting about various topics, it was past midnight. We decided to sleep, though the sound of vehicles passing on the road kept waking us up at times. Regardless, we managed to get some rest.

Early in the morning, we woke up refreshed, had breakfast, and prepared to leave. It was going to be a long day, as we planned to explore a small town called Ronda before reaching the famous city of Granada. It was going to be quite a challenge.

As we traveled, we passed through hilly areas with numerous windmills spinning in the wind. The landscape on both sides of the road was lush green with trees. The sky was clear with a few scattered clouds. It was warm outside, but inside the vehicle, we were comfortable. Occasionally, cyclists passed by in a designated lane, and we spotted grazing cattle, mostly cows, along the roadside.

As we entered a mountainous region, our vehicle climbed uphill slowly. Dense forests surrounded us. We eventually reached a designated parking area where travelers could stop and admire the valley below. We decided to take a break there to cool down our vehicle and enjoy the scenery. From the hilltop, we could see a settlement on the other side of the valley. The vast landscape stretched out with mountains, greenery, scattered clouds, and a blue sky.

While we were soaking in the view, a couple in a large camper van parked nearby. They had noticed us admiring the scenery and decided to stop as well. They were from Basel, Switzerland, and spoke both German and English. We asked if they were coming from Ronda and whether the journey there was long. They told us that it would take another 40 to 50 minutes and assured us that we would enjoy it.

After chatting for a while, we resumed our journey. Along the route, there were several scenic stops for travelers. Passing through small villages, we eventually took another break at Mirador de Atajate, a viewpoint offering a similar view to the previous one. While walking around, I noticed a stone with various inscriptions, one of which was “Moro” in English.

For a moment, I felt as though I was not in Spain but in my hometown, Moro. In Spain, “Moro” could refer to a place, a town, or a mountain peak. Historically, Muslims in Spain were also called “Moros” or “Moors.” Seeing the word “Moro” carved into the stone evoked a deep sense of nostalgia in me. I stood there for a few minutes, staring at it, feeling a strange connection. Before leaving, I looked at it one last time. As our vehicle moved forward, I felt as if I was reliving the moment when I had left my hometown, Moro, in 2008 to move to Sweden. As our journey continued, the word “Moro” remained behind.

By the time we reached Ronda, it was around 2:30 PM. Due to the heat, there were few people on the streets—perhaps they were taking their midday siesta. We parked near the ancient fortress and began walking around. Next to the parking lot, large stone-paved courtyards were lined with restaurants and cafés, where lively gatherings likely took place in the evening.

The fortress in Ronda was built by the Moors (Muslims) to protect the city. Its entrance reminded me of the Umerkot Fort in Pakistan. Within the fortress, several restaurants were present, but few people were around. The outdoor seating areas had shaded canopies for comfort. We climbed the fortress walls to enjoy panoramic views of the surroundings before descending and heading towards the city.

As we walked through the streets, I noticed olive trees for the first time. Spain is the world’s leading producer of olives and olive oil, with the Andalusia region being the top contributor. These were not the wild olives found in Larkana but the cultivated variety mentioned in Surah At-Tin of the Quran. Our beloved Prophet Muhammad (PBUH) regarded the olive tree as a blessed tree and encouraged its use.

Ronda gradually revealed its charm. On one side of the road was a regular sidewalk, while on the other side, there were arched corridors for pedestrians, possibly to provide shade during hot weather. As we moved forward, we noticed a crowd gathered at the Puente Nuevo (New Bridge). Looking down from the bridge, we were overwhelmed—it was a deep canyon with a river flowing nearly 200-300 meters below. The sight was both breathtaking and terrifying.

It is said that during the Spanish Civil War, prisoners were thrown from this bridge into the canyon below. The canyon divides Ronda into two parts, connected by this historic bridge. Today, Ronda has become a popular tourist destination, and we saw many visitors exploring the city, some riding horse-drawn carriages. We took many memorable photos of the bridge from both sides.

After exploring the markets, we bought some souvenirs and snacks before heading back to our camper van. We planned to eat lunch before continuing our journey to Granada. While preparing our meal, Zeeshan and I engaged in deep conversation—sharing thoughts and stories, something that adds to the beauty of travel. A journey becomes even more enjoyable when you have a like-minded companion.

After lunch, as we were about to leave Ronda, curiosity struck us—what if we went down to see the bridge from below? We noticed vehicles and people below, so we decided to take a different route to reach the base of the canyon. As we descended, we found a parking area with a stunning view of the towering rock formations supporting Ronda.

The landscape was dramatic, with the canyon walls appearing even more imposing from below. Due to the heat, many people were dressed lightly. After spending some time there and capturing more photos, we debated whether to return the same way or find another route.

Using common sense, we figured that locals wouldn’t always drive up the steep road—there had to be an alternative. We continued driving forward, and eventually, a local man walking his dog confirmed that the road would connect to a highway. Further along, we met a cycling couple who reassured us that although the road was rough, our camper’s sturdy tires could handle it. Trusting their advice, we carefully navigated the bumpy two-kilometer stretch until we finally reached the main road, feeling relieved and grateful. (Continues) 

Click here for Part-1,

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Abdullah Soomro, penname Abdullah Usman Morai, hailing from Moro town of Sindh, province of Pakistan, is based in Stockholm Sweden. Currently he is working as Groundwater Engineer in Stockholm Sweden. He did BE (Agriculture) from Sindh Agriculture University Tando Jam and MSc water systems technology from KTH Stockholm Sweden as well as MSc Management from Stockholm University. Beside this he also did masters in journalism and economics from Shah Abdul Latif University Khairpur Mirs, Sindh. He is author of a travelogue book named ‘Musafatoon’. His second book is in process. He writes articles from time to time. A frequent traveler, he also does podcast on YouTube with channel name: VASJE Podcast.

All photos provided by the author