We saw ourselves as two strangers in this fascinating land, eager to explore, learn, and enrich ourselves—not necessarily in wealth, but through experiences and discoveries
By Abdullah Usman Morai
The much-awaited day finally arrived on May 21, 2024, when my friend Zeeshan Khan and I boarded a Ryanair flight from Stockholm to Málaga, Spain. Our plan was to explore Andalusia, the southern region of Spain, also known as Andalucía. Inspired by Mustansar Hussain Tarar’s book A Stranger in Andalusia, we saw ourselves as two strangers in this fascinating land, eager to explore, learn, and enrich ourselves—not necessarily in wealth, but through experiences and discoveries. As our friends Sikandar Baloch and Sajjad Suhag remarked after their European tour, “We have returned richer,” referring to the friendships, conversations, and places they had encountered.
The flight from Stockholm to Málaga lasted four and a half hours, and we landed at Málaga Airport around midnight. Despite the late hour, the city was lively. We hailed a taxi, engaging in conversation with the driver, who assured us that Málaga was a peaceful city with minimal crime. Curious about Gibraltar, I asked whether cars there drove on the left or right side of the road. He confirmed that, like Spain, Gibraltar follows right-hand traffic. However, since Gibraltar is a British territory, I had expected the opposite.
Upon reaching the city center, we checked into Pensión Santa Paula Guesthouse on Calle Especería at nearly 1:00 AM. After dropping off our luggage, we stepped out in search of dinner. Most restaurants were closed, but a small kebab shop run by an Egyptian man was open. As we ordered, a group of Moroccan tourists arrived, greeting the Egyptian owner warmly and placing their orders. We took our food to St. John’s Church, where we sat on the church steps and enjoyed our meal. Meanwhile, street-cleaning trucks with large rotating brushes were busy keeping the city spotless. After a short stroll, we returned to our hotel. The room was modest, with shared bathrooms and showers located outside in the corridor. This was our only night in a hotel; for the rest of our Andalusian journey, we had planned to stay in a Roadsurfer camper van. After a long conversation, we finally drifted off to sleep.
The next morning, we freshened up and headed downstairs for breakfast, where other hotel guests were already enjoying their meals. After breakfast, we returned to our room, packed up, checked out, and stored our luggage at the hotel. With several hours to spare before picking up our camper van in the afternoon, we set off on foot to explore Málaga. The moment we stepped outside, we could smell the sea breeze. Málaga is located along the Alboran Sea, the westernmost part of the Mediterranean, which separates southern Europe from North Africa. The Strait of Gibraltar, which links the Mediterranean to the Atlantic Ocean, lies nearby. The coastline from Nerja, Málaga, and Marbella to Gibraltar is famously known as the Costa del Sol, or Coast of the Sun.
As we wandered through the city, we quickly realized that Málaga was a major tourist hub. The streets were lined with visitors from around the world, many dressed in light summer clothing due to the warm weather. The roads were impeccably clean, some paved with marble tiles, while balconies were adorned with flower pots overflowing with pink blossoms. Palm trees lined the streets, adding to the city’s charm. When we reached Plaza de la Constitución, we encountered a lively crowd, possibly part of a demonstration or protest. Women carried shopping bags in one hand while holding their partners’ hands in the other.
Continuing our exploration, we arrived at Málaga’s Roman Theatre on Calle Alcazabilla. Overlooking the theater, the grand Alcazaba Fortress stood atop the hill, while the ancient Roman ruins lay at its feet. The theatre, built in the 1st century AD, remained in use until the 3rd century, after which it was buried for centuries. It was rediscovered in 1951 during excavations. Standing there, I tried to imagine what performances and gatherings had taken place there two millennia ago and what this site might look like in another 2,000 years. This reflection reinforced my belief that time diminishes all human achievements, and we should live our limited days with dignity, humility, and purpose.
From a distance, we noticed a long queue of tourists waiting to enter the Alcazaba. However, we decided to continue our city tour before visiting the fortress. Málaga was bustling with visitors, its palm-lined streets shaded by well-placed trees and wide marble-paved sidewalks. From nearly every angle, the Alcazaba loomed in the background, a constant reminder of the city’s historical grandeur. We came across an old tree with a strikingly reddish trunk and marveled at its age.
Eventually, we returned to the Alcazaba and joined the queue to purchase tickets. The process was automated, with tourists retrieving their own tickets from machines. Once inside, we found ourselves gradually ascending through the fortress, stopping occasionally to catch our breath and admire the panoramic views of the city. The pathways were paved with ancient bricks and stones, and the fortress walls were unplastered, revealing their original structure. Viewing platforms allowed visitors to gaze upon Málaga from above. Many tourists wore wide-brimmed hats to shield themselves from the sun, particularly young women whose elegant hats complemented their beauty.
Despite the heat, a cool breeze made our visit comfortable. Near a fountain surrounded by lush greenery, we took a break under the shade of ancient olive trees. The Alcazaba also featured water channels running through the pathways, likely designed for drainage. From higher vantage points, we could see Málaga’s skyline stretching towards the Alboran Sea, with distant ships anchored along the shore.
One particularly striking spot within the fortress featured interconnected terraces with beautifully designed archways. Zeeshan mentioned that his father’s residence resembled this architecture, bringing back nostalgic memories. As time pressed on, we made our way out of the Alcazaba and headed toward Málaga’s famous Hashtag Sign, where we captured some memorable photos. Positioned perfectly, this spot allowed for a single frame that included the Málaga sign, the Roman Theatre, and the Alcazaba Fortress atop the hill, encapsulating the essence of this magnificent city.
Málaga felt incredibly vibrant and lively, with possibly more tourists than locals. Nevertheless, we decided it would be best to have lunch before picking up our Roadsurfer camper. We considered different options, including Moroccan or Pakistani food. Initially, we went to a Moroccan restaurant, but things didn’t quite work out there, so we eventually ended up at a nearby Indian restaurant.
By this time, it was siesta hour in the city—a period for rest when businesses shut down for an afternoon break, a practice still common in Spain and Italy. I remember that my father used to close his shop in the afternoon as well, but due to increasing competition, this tradition has largely disappeared now. However, since Málaga is a popular tourist destination, restaurants and eateries remained open. We finally sat down at the Indian restaurant, Namaste Grill, and enjoyed our meal.
The young woman serving the food seemed South Asian to me, but it turned out she was from Latin America and spoke only Spanish and English. Meanwhile, the man at the counter was on the phone, speaking in Urdu or Hindi, possibly with someone from home. There were only a few other customers in the restaurant. As time pressed on, we decided to leave and made our way back to the hotel. Instead of dealing with the hassle of booking a Bolt taxi ourselves, we asked the hotel receptionist to call one while we freshened up and gathered our luggage. The receptionist happily did so, and within a short while, the taxi arrived. We checked out of the hotel, loaded our belongings, and set off for the Roadsurfer Camper office.
Both Zeeshan Khan and I were quite excited, as this was going to be our first experience traveling in a camper. Although we had previously traveled together in a car and gone camping, this was an entirely new adventure. As we rode in the taxi, we continued to take in the sights of the city. The fountains scattered throughout Málaga helped ease the heat, making the atmosphere more pleasant. After about half an hour, we arrived at the Roadsurfer Camper office, located slightly outside the main city, on Calle José Calderón.
A young staff member at the reception desk checked our booking details. We had reserved a Mercedes-Benz Roadsurfer Camper. Once all the paperwork was completed, he took us to the vehicle and explained its features. Although they had already sent us a detailed guide, which we had printed out, it was still helpful to see everything in person. He demonstrated how to fill the water tank and empty the wastewater, use the fridge, stove, and shower, adjust the seats for sleeping arrangements, and operate the various compartments for storage and seating.
Additionally, he informed us about AdBlue, a solution made from water and urea, which we needed to add to the camper’s tank before returning it. AdBlue is used in diesel vehicles to reduce nitrogen oxide emissions, which are harmful to both human health and the environment.
Before bidding us farewell, he wished us good luck and a safe journey. He also pointed towards a showcase filled with leftover supplies from previous travelers—items such as cooking oil, salt, black pepper, toilet paper, tissues, disposable plates, and more. Tourists often leave behind these supplies for future travelers to use, and we took some useful items as well.
Finally, we took our camper, exited the garage, and stopped at a nearby fuel station to fill the water tank. The vehicle already had a full tank of diesel. Once the water tank was full, we were ready to hit the road.
We searched for a supermarket on Google Maps to pick up additional supplies. Eventually, we parked near a large shopping center in the La Roca district and went into a Carrefour supermarket. While shopping, it almost felt like we were locals rather than tourists. Typically, tourists don’t find themselves shopping for groceries in large supermarkets, but those traveling in campers often get a closer look at local goods and daily life.
One thing that caught my eye in the supermarket was the large selection of dried meat, often packed in weights of 10 kilograms or more. While dried meat is available in Sweden, it is not as commonly found as it seemed to be here.
After finishing our shopping, we were finally ready to embark on our adventure. Without further delay, we set off from Málaga, heading directly toward Gibraltar. (Continues)
Read: Travelogue: A Winter Adventure in Porto, Portugal
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Abdullah Soomro, penname Abdullah Usman Morai, hailing from Moro town of Sindh, province of Pakistan, is based in Stockholm Sweden. Currently he is working as Groundwater Engineer in Stockholm Sweden. He did BE (Agriculture) from Sindh Agriculture University Tando Jam and MSc water systems technology from KTH Stockholm Sweden as well as MSc Management from Stockholm University. Beside this he also did masters in journalism and economics from Shah Abdul Latif University Khairpur Mirs, Sindh. He is author of a travelogue book named ‘Musafatoon’. His second book is in process. He writes articles from time to time. A frequent traveler, he also does podcast on YouTube with channel name: VASJE Podcast.
All photos provided by the author
