Belgrade is located around the confluence of two famous European rivers: the Danube and the Sava. It was formerly the capital of the old Yugoslavia.
By Abdullah Usman Morai
The next day brought the same streets and the same lamps
It didn’t take long to explain “omelet” to the waiter that morning. In the breakfast hall, we saw some familiar faces from the day before and some new ones, too. Over a delicious breakfast and amid clouds of cigarette smoke, we headed back to our room to get ready. That’s when a message popped up on WhatsApp: the taxi driver had arrived outside the hotel.
We didn’t delay. We quickly got ready and met the driver, Nend, outside. He had been sent by Darko, the taxi company owner we had in contact on our first day. Nend was a tall, well-built Serb. He welcomed us warmly and introduced himself, and we set off for Novi Sad.
It took a little while to get out of Belgrade, but soon enough, we were surrounded by lush greenery. During the ride, we chatted a lot with Nend. One thing that stood out from his conversation was that Serbia does not want to join the European Union. Pointing to a bridge, he told us that it had been completely destroyed during the war.
Eventually, we reached the city of Novi Sad. He dropped us off in the city center, and we told him to return in about two and a half hours so we could explore the city in the meantime.
It was still early morning; the streets seemed relatively empty. Maybe there really weren’t many people living there—only God knows. The weather was somewhat chilly. As we walked, we reached a large square where the Name of Mary Catholic Church stood out prominently. There were only a few people around. The sky was ruled by thick clouds, and we continued walking. The surrounding buildings appeared to be from a much older era.
Some shops and restaurants were still closed, though a few were just beginning to open. We came across another couple of squares and saw a few statues commemorating important figures from the city. One charming detail was spotting an old-fashioned telephone booth—perhaps it still worked. We took a few souvenir photos with it nonetheless.
As time passed, the number of people in the streets began to grow. In some areas, the roads seemed narrow and designed for single-lane car traffic, while the pedestrian footpaths were wider and more spacious. The city was very clean and orderly. We walked all around, exploring different spots.
We also visited a couple of souvenir shops. One shop was run by an elderly lady. As soon as we entered, we saw a sign that said: “If you want to look at something, please ask us—we will take it out of the showcase or off the shelf for you.” This might have been their policy, but it isn’t how it usually works. Normally, customers like to browse freely and then choose what to buy. Such strictness often discourages shoppers, who end up leaving quickly, just like we did.
As we stepped out of the shop, I was reminded of a line from Bhaau Haji Ghulam Rasool Soomro alias Khameeso, who used to say on such occasions: “Putr Pat pakho, toh bhi dukaan halayo.” (Son, you close your shop, it’s not cup of tea for you). Remembering this, I smiled.
We then entered the Tourist Information Office, where we spoke to a staff member who gave us useful sightseeing tips. However, we were short on time. We spent some time studying the photos displayed on the walls.
After passing through a few more streets, we returned to the same central square. Since there was still some time before Nend was due to return, we sat down at a cafeteria nearby, which was quite full. Like in many other countries, in Serbia too, they serve honey along with sugar and milk with your tea.
We spent about an hour there, sipping tea and chatting about everything under the sun. Right on time, we returned to the agreed spot, where Nend was already waiting for us. As soon as we sat in the car, he asked us how our visit to Novi Sad had gone and whether we liked the city.
The Fortress above the Danube and a Day of Discovery in Novi Sad and Sremski Karlovci
Our next destination was the majestic Petrovaradin Fortress of Novi Sad, perched atop a hill overlooking the Danube River. We were swiftly headed in that direction and arrived at the fortress parking lot within fifteen to twenty minutes. We planned to spend about an hour exploring the site.
Inside the fortress, both vehicular and pedestrian paths were paved with stone bricks. The Petrovaradin Fortress, or simply “The Fortress,” is built at a stunning location. From its height, the Danube flows beneath you, and across the river lies the city of Novi Sad. From here, you can also spot modern bridges stretching across the Danube, adding to the beauty of the scenery, which includes the river, mountains, trees, and the lush greenery around the fortress. The overall picture is breathtaking.
Many tourists were wandering through the fortress grounds, including an Indian couple we happened to notice. A light drizzle had started, and at one point, we came upon a path paved with red bricks that shimmered in the rain, casting a magical glow.
As we strolled and snapped photos, we reached the fortress’s Clock Tower. I believe that the clock hands must be visible even to those on boats sailing in the Danube, allowing them to tell the time from afar. The view from this spot was also spectacular.
Even here, lovers had left their mark. On the iron railing facing the river, many had written their names inside heart shapes and secured padlocks to it—why they do this, only God or the ones locking them can say. The panorama of the Danube River, the city of Novi Sad, and the surrounding woods was deeply romantic. We thoroughly enjoyed our visit.
From the fortress wall, I glanced down and noticed a path cutting through the trees between the hill and the river. It appeared to lead to another part of Novi Sad. Red-brick staircases also added to the charm of the fortress, and from the higher points, we could see small footbridges connecting the various hillocks within the fortress area—bridges we had used when we entered.
We captured many memorable photos, soaked in the scenic beauty, and engaged in lively conversations. The hill on which the fortress stands is lush and soul-soothing. Before leaving, we browsed a few souvenir shops near the parking area. A large hotel and restaurant were also present within the fortress grounds, where staff were preparing for the evening. We passed by the museum housed inside the fortress, but only viewed it from the outside.
Eventually, we bid farewell to the fortress. Our driver, Nend, once again asked how we liked it. We replied with enthusiasm that it had been a wonderful experience.
From the fortress, we drove straight to the small riverside town of Sremski Karlovci, located along the Danube. We arrived within twenty to twenty-five minutes and planned to spend a little over an hour there.
As we entered the town, we noticed a fair number of other tourists, including groups of schoolchildren on educational trips. Sremski Karlovci is known for its wineries, which have been producing wine using traditional methods passed down through generations. We left Nend at the parking area and walked through the town, wandering a bit before arriving at one such winery.
There, a young woman welcomed us and shared that the winery belonged to her in-laws, and she had taken over its management after marrying into the family. Just like we store wheat in large bins, they had massive barrels filled with wine, and shelves lined with elegantly displayed wine bottles. Enthusiasts could sample the wine for free, much like how grain traders in our country scoop samples from sacks to display their quality. Visitors could taste wine from the bottled selections.
Being there reminded me of Hunter Valley in Sydney, Australia, where I once toured similar wineries with my cousin Altaf Mazhar. We thanked the woman for her hospitality before leaving—she must have been wondering who these tourists were that neither tasted nor purchased anything!
We also saw a couple of churches and the town hall, which stood out as the town’s main architectural landmarks. After exploring for a while, we decided to return to Belgrade. Before dropping us at the hotel, Nend arranged for us to meet Darko, the owner of the taxi company, who warmly greeted us and asked if we had enjoyed our trip. We responded affirmatively and expressed our gratitude.
After a brief rest at the hotel, we stepped out once more and headed to Knez Mihailova Street. Passing the Belgrade Milestone, we walked across to the other side of the street and sat down for dinner at Plató Restaurant. Due to the chilly weather, we chose a table near a heater. The restaurant was packed. People were casually smoking indoors, and the ambiance was lively—laughter, beauty, the clinking of cutlery, the aroma of food, and a gentle haze of cigarette smoke created a vivid atmosphere.
Some couples were on dates, while others were dining with their families. We enjoyed both the meal and a post-dinner cup of tea, spending a good deal of time chatting. Afterwards, we visited a souvenir shop on Knez Street, run by an older Russian woman. She told us that her husband was from an Arab country. According to her, our skin tone was quite attractive. I laughed and said, “Maybe that’s why you married a wheat-colored man?” She laughed heartily in return.
I thought to myself how obsessed we are with fairness creams and whitening formulas back home. Regardless, we bought a few items from her shop and returned to the hotel with our souvenirs. Staying at a centrally located hotel was a great advantage—we could come and go easily, freshening up between outings.
That evening, for the last time, we left the hotel and returned to the same boutique restaurant from the previous night. The ambiance was unchanged—beauty, cigarette smoke, laughter, cold air, heaters, and a mixed crowd of tourists and locals. The restaurant, as well as others nearby, was fully packed. Tourists and locals were strolling down Knez Street, soaking in the vibe.
After dinner, around 10 PM, we took another stroll along Knez Street and made our way to Republic Square, one of Belgrade’s prominent public squares. It was a large, open space filled with tourists snapping photos and enjoying the surroundings. Nearby stood the National Museum and the National Theatre. On one side of the square was a statue of Prince Mihailo on horseback.
The square was beautifully lit, creating a romantic atmosphere despite the cold. Many people were enjoying the evening, and we were among them. On our way back, we passed a bookstore named “The Oldest Serbian Bookstore.” Established in 1901, it still stands on Knez Street. Even tourists who don’t buy books often stop to visit it. It was closed at that time, so we only saw it from the outside.
Eventually, we made our way back to the hotel. This was our final night in Belgrade. As we lay in bed, we chatted about the previous two days’ experiences before slowly drifting off to sleep.
3rd day explorations
The Legacy of Tito, Tesla, and a Farewell to Belgrade
Imran’s nephew had advised him from Canada that if he ever visited Belgrade, he must not miss the Tesla Museum. Imran himself has a keen interest in inventions and science, so he took this suggestion seriously. Later, he shared several photos and videos from the museum with his nephew. We also took plenty of memorable photos inside.
After touring the museum, we stepped outside to find the weather clear and pleasant. A short walk later, we hailed another taxi and headed to the Museum of Yugoslavia, where we bought tickets and entered. This museum is not only a large historical complex but also a vast garden. It houses the final resting place of Marshal Josip Broz Tito and his wife Jovanka Broz. The garden features numerous statues and monuments, many of which were gifts from dignitaries of other countries or commemorations from Tito’s visits abroad.
The museum aims to educate visitors about the history of the Kingdom of Yugoslavia, Socialist Yugoslavia, and the legacy of Marshal Tito. Essentially, it is a history museum. Initially, we wandered through the garden, observing the sculptures and monuments. In the sky, scattered clouds occasionally let the sun peek through, casting long or short shadows of the trees depending on where you stood.
Outside a building called “The Flowers of Yugoslavia”, a beautiful fountain added serenity to the setting. Inside that building lie the graves of Tito and his wife. Tito was originally from Croatia, and he was the leader who held the multi-ethnic nation of Yugoslavia together for decades. However, after his death, tensions rose, and eventually, the federation dissolved.
Inside the mausoleum, a striking image caught our attention—a poster bearing the words: “Comrade Tito has passed away,” with a background photo of a mourning crowd, their faces etched with grief. The tomb area was adorned with many flowers and plants, and the ceiling above was made of glass, giving a clear view of the sky.
Several of Tito’s personal belongings were on display—his desk, chair, and many memorabilia. After visiting the Flowers of Yugoslavia, we made our way to the main museum building. Upon entering, it felt as if we had stepped into the past, into the very era of Tito’s Yugoslavia.
The museum walls were decorated with flags and maps from different eras, showing how the political landscape had changed over time. Postcards from that period were also displayed, bearing the names of towns now belonging to other countries. For instance, a postcard might say “Split, Yugoslavia”, whereas today, Split is a part of Croatia. It was fascinating to witness how entire countries can emerge from the pieces of a former one.
Models of trains and airplanes used during the Yugoslav era were also exhibited, alongside tractors, machines, and weapons from that time. These relics vividly recalled a bygone era. We spent quite a while there, completely immersed in history and reflection, taking plenty of photos to remember it by.
Eventually, though unwillingly, we stepped out. Nearby, we spotted the Embassy of Iran, a reminder of how Belgrade hosts a mix of international presence.
Since we didn’t have internet access, ordering an online taxi was difficult. So we kept walking until we reached a bus stop. We boarded a bus, albeit unsure of its route. Seated beside us was a young guy, and we asked him how we could get to Knez Street or Republic Square. He kindly told us that this bus wouldn’t take us directly, but if we got off at a certain stop and then took another specific bus, we’d reach our destination. We followed his advice.
The guy chatted with us kindly, and after about half an hour, we arrived at Republic Square, where we found the place bustling with life once again. We had previously visited it at night, but now we explored it in the sunlight. Though the sun and clouds were both present, the air remained chilly. We had seen and done most of what we had planned, so we were just passing the time, taking in the ambiance.
Soon, we made our way once more to Knez Mihailova Street, which was just as lively and crowded as before. Some street performers had painted their faces or dressed up as cartoonish animals to entertain children and earn a few coins. Others took photos with them for fun. We strolled up and down Knez Street, all the way to the Belgrade Milestone, and to our surprise, we again saw the four girls from the Stockholm Airport parking lot. They too seemed to be savoring their final day in Belgrade.
For dinner, we returned to Plató Restaurant. This time, we requested a smoke-free area, and the staff seated us indoors in the non-smoking section, which was a relief. Our plan was to spend a few hours here before heading to the hotel to collect our luggage and proceed to the airport. In such a romantic atmosphere, time flew by.
We had a hearty lunch, enjoyed some dessert, and sipped a few rounds of tea. Later in the evening, we once again roamed Knez Street, wandered aimlessly for a bit, and eventually reached the Rajiceva Shopping Center. We noticed the same guy from our first-day lunch at the restaurant near the shopping center—the gyros vendor—hard at work. Seeing him again made us chuckle.
We passed by the colorful café with the vibrant chairs and the street with the red umbrellas once more, eventually returning to our hotel. We picked up our luggage, called a taxi, and finally headed to Belgrade Airport.
Grateful for the journey, we thanked the Almighty for introducing us to a new country. The journey ended with a heart full of beautiful memories and the joy of discovery. (Concludes)
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Abdullah Soomro, penname Abdullah Usman Morai, hailing from Moro town of Sindh, province of Pakistan, is based in Stockholm Sweden. Currently he is working as Groundwater Engineer in Stockholm Sweden. He did BE (Agriculture) from Sindh Agriculture University Tando Jam and MSc water systems technology from KTH Stockholm Sweden as well as MSc Management from Stockholm University. Beside this he also did masters in journalism and economics from Shah Abdul Latif University Khairpur Mirs, Sindh. He is author of a travelogue book named ‘Musafatoon’. His second book is in process. He writes articles from time to time. A frequent traveler, he also does podcast on YouTube with channel name: VASJE Podcast.
