The Sea, the Hills, and the Heart between Fog and Flowers
By Abdullah Usman Morai | Sweden
Return to Augusta Arch and the Enchanting Trams of Lisbon
We returned once again to the Arco da Rua Augusta (Augusta Arch). Trams were moving to and from along the tracks. Whenever these pale-colored trams passed in front of equally pale-hued buildings, it created an utterly captivating atmosphere. Traveling in these vintage trams has its own unique charm. They were also adorned with various advertisements.
I watched them closely—the trams and their rain-soaked tracks glistening in the mist. The loud screeching of the trams echoed in the surroundings, and I noticed some people covering their ears. Despite the noise, we enjoyed the ambiance and then walked under the Augusta Arch into Rua Augusta, the bustling street leading further into the heart of Lisbon.
Bustling Streets, Bengali Shops, and Souvenir Stops
As we walked deeper into Rua Augusta, we came across another set of tram tracks. More trams rolled by, and excited tourists watched them with fascination. Many advanced countries have maintained tram systems alongside other modes of transport. In fact, Stockholm is currently planning and laying out new tram routes for future expansion.
The street had a distinctly desi (South Asian) vibe—most of the shopkeepers were Bengali, selling all sorts of items. We came across some large souvenir shops run by Bengalis. We stepped into one, and the salesman there, also Bengali, greeted us. When he found out we live in Sweden, he asked us if we had any Swedish coins or notes to give him—he was a collector of international currencies. I bought a few fridge magnets and postcards and paid him in Swedish krona, which made him quite happy. We did, however, notice that the girl who sold us items earlier had charged us a little more than this shop.
The rain-drenched street was buzzing with activity. Some traditional rickshaws (likely tuk-tuks) were also visible. Along the street and at some corners, restaurants and cafes had placed chairs, tables, and umbrellas outside for customer comfort.
Santa Justa Lift and Rossio Square
Wandering through the city, we reached the street of the Santa Justa Lift, a popular attraction for tourists in Lisbon. However, we decided not to ride it and admired it from afar. We then made our way toward Rossio Square, also known as King Pedro Square.
Rossio Square features water fountains at the northern and southern ends, and in the center stands a tall column crowned with a large statue of King Pedro. The column reminded me of the one in Trafalgar Square, London. With Christmas approaching, temporary market stalls had been set up around the square, adding liveliness to the area. For tourists’ convenience, a large map of Lisbon was also displayed.
Nearby stood the National Theatre and several other architectural buildings, and behind them, far in the distance, a tall hill came into view.
Martim Moniz Square and Desi Lisbon
From there, we walked over to Martim Moniz Square, a large open space where many South Asians—particularly Bengalis—were gathered. Slowly, we reached Rua Benformoso, a narrow and bustling street that made me feel as though I were in Bangladesh.
Though the crowd included Bengalis, Nepalis, Indians, and Pakistanis, Bengalis were the majority. The area was tightly packed, lively, and filled with chatter. It felt like many had come here with the hope of finding immigration opportunities or searching for accommodation. Some people spoke about the deception they had faced.
We enjoyed samosas and tea—a bit of comfort and warmth in the chaos. People were standing right in the street, drinking tea, enjoying snacks, just like back home. This district had an elaborate setup for desi food and refreshments.
After some time exploring, we returned to Martim Moniz Square. At the base of a sloping street leading uphill, we found an escalator installed alongside a staircase—a modern touch to an old alley. This is known locally as “Health Stairs” (Escadinhas da Saúde). Alongside the steps, windows, and balconies of nearby homes were adorned with beautiful flowerpots, enhancing the alley’s charm.
Parting Ways and Climbing the Hill Alone
Salman Bhai had to meet someone for some work, so he bid me farewell and promised to meet later at the same street where we had samosa and tea. I decided to explore the escalator alley on my own. Trees were planted along the stairway, and I continued upward.
Eventually, I reached a high point on the hill. I wanted to lose myself in the narrow alleys, only to rediscover myself again. There was no rush—I strolled slowly, enjoying the streets and scenes. Both sides of the alley were lined with parked vehicles, and in the center was a winding stone path, with wild grass and tiny weeds sprouting naturally from between the stones.
Cafés, Castle, and a Glimpse of the Tagus River
At one point, I encountered another large staircase and climbed even higher. A few quaint cafés appeared along the way, offering spectacular overhead views of the city and the Tagus River (Rio Tejo) in the distance.
“Let’s keep going, Soomra,” I told myself—and soon, I reached the entrance of the historic Castelo de São Jorge (St. George’s Castle). Outside the castle, a couple of tourist buses were parked, and many visitors were entering and exiting. I bought a ticket and entered.
Inside St. George’s Castle: Peacocks, History, and Stone Paths
The castle was soaked in rainwater. Beautiful peacocks were roaming around, reminding me of the monsoon in Thar, Sindh. Tourists were enthusiastically taking photos of the majestic birds. The view from the castle offered a breathtaking panorama of Lisbon’s red-tiled rooftops and the river far beyond.
When rain falls as a blessing, both humans and birds rejoice. I watched birds chirping joyfully in the castle’s trees, flying down and back up again, disappearing into the foliage.
Wanderings Among Ruins, Arches, and Reflections
The castle began to fill up with more tourists. Everyone was enjoying the stone-paved walkways, the large trees, the arched entrances, the resting benches, and the overall serenity.
Solo travelers often bond with other solo travelers or ask one another to take pictures. I had some memorable pictures taken and also captured photos for others.
Old cannons pointing toward the city and river were also on display, hinting at the castle’s military past. Ancient trees and stones were scattered throughout, and after the rain, the puddles beautifully reflected the castle’s arches and greenery.
There were statues of historical figures, small fountains, and pathways that took visitors around the entire castle grounds. I walked atop the castle’s walls, using narrow stairways that allowed access to scenic lookouts. Some parts of the castle were accessible via old arched bridges, and ruins of palaces or homes from the medieval period were also visible.
I wandered for quite some time, soaking in the atmosphere and history. Finally, I bid farewell to the peacocks and the rain-soaked castle and made my way back out.
Souvenirs and Reflections
Outside the castle, I strolled around the surrounding area and checked out a few souvenir shops, which were well-decorated and colorful.
Return through Martim Moniz to Bengali Street
On the way back, I took a different route, strolling and exploring until I reached Martim Moniz Square, and from there, I continued walking until I arrived at Rua do Benformoso, commonly known as Bengali Street, which seemed even more crowded than before. A light drizzle had begun by then.
I slowly made my way to the place where I met Salman bhai, and we wandered a bit more through the neighborhood, back and forth, here and there—absorbing the lively atmosphere of the street.
Dinner in a Desi Restaurant in Lisbon
We decided to have dinner at a desi (South Asian) restaurant owned by a Pakistani. The place was bustling, especially with Pakistanis, Indians (mostly Sikhs), and Bengalis.
On the Sikhs’ table nearby, there were two large jugs of lassi (a traditional yogurt drink) placed in front of them, and they were enjoying the lassi even before the food had arrived.
When you’re exhausted from a full day of walking and then find some proper desi food, the fatigue melts away.
We took a few more strolls after dinner and then had tea again from a Bengali shop nearby.
Evening Scenes, Tram Tracks, and a Dreamlike Street
The rain had slightly increased, so I thought it was best to head back to the hotel. Bhai Salman offered to accompany me a little way.
On the way back, we passed through a narrow, descending street with tram tracks, which seemed to end at that very point. At the upper part of the street, two trams were parked, possibly preparing to descend, switch tracks, and go back on their route to transport people again.
At the lower end of the street, where we had reached, a few young French boys and girls were sipping cold drinks while gazing at the end-of-the-line tram view.
The gentle rain, the glow of bulbs reflecting on the wet tram rails, and the stone stairways lining both sides of the tram street with warm light spilling from the windows of adjacent homes made it feel like a dream.
Leaving behind the French youngsters, the glinting tram rails, and the dim lights, I bid farewell to Salman Bhai.
A Walk along Avenida da Liberdade
I continued walking until I reached the tree-lined pedestrian path of Avenida da Liberdade (Liberty Avenue). Due to the rain and wind, many tree leaves had already fallen and were scattered along the path.
As it was close to Christmas, the entire avenue was beautifully decorated and lit.
Eventually, I safely reached back at my hotel. The receptionist informed me that it would rain heavily the next day, so I should plan accordingly.
I had plans to go to Sintra, which is about half an hour from Lisbon. I took some tea from the hotel bar and went to my room. That marked the end of a wonderful day, and I quickly fell asleep from all the fatigue.
The Next Morning – Journey to Sintra
The next day started well. When I went down for breakfast, I saw a few tourists already seated, including two young women who seemed to be friends. I had my breakfast, prepared myself, and then walked south along Avenida da Liberdade, heading toward Praça dos Restauradores (Restauradores Square), from where I was supposed to catch a train to Sintra via Rossio Railway Station.
The square was quite large but nearly empty of tourists at that time.
Since there was still time before the Sintra-bound train, I wandered around the square. The sky hinted at more rain, but it hadn’t started yet.
On the Train to Sintra
After some time, I made my way to Rossio Station, inquired about the Sintra train, and bought a round-trip ticket. As I sat on the train, I noticed that the same two girls from breakfast were sitting on the seat in front of me. We smiled at each other—an unspoken acknowledgment that we all knew we were staying at the same hotel.
Most of the train’s passengers appeared to be tourists. Traveling through the rain-soaked countryside, the train eventually reached Sintra Railway Station.
Arrival at Sintra: The Fairytale Town
Outside the station, there were Hop-on Hop-off buses and also local tuk-tuks trying to attract tourists.
I spoke with a young Brazilian man who drove a tuk-tuk, but unfortunately, he couldn’t accept card payments. (Locals called tuk-tuks “Tik-Tik.”) I thought it would have been fun to explore in one, but I didn’t get the chance.
As the hop-on-hop-off bus still had time, I decided to have tea and cake at a nearby blue-doored café.
The ambiance of that café made me truly feel like I was in Portugal—the customers and the staff, likely the owners, were all locals. It reminded me of the village settings often seen in TV dramas on satellite dishes back in childhood.
Flashback: Tea and Cake with My First Teacher
While enjoying the tea and cake, I was reminded of my first primary school teacher in Moro, Sain Mr. Basaruddin Behan. Every day, I used to bring him tea in a kettle, a cup in my finger, and a small saucer with cake from the tea shop near our school.
He was the first person to teach me the alphabet—“Alif for Anb, B for Bala, and B for Bakri” P Palo—written on a chalkboard.
May God bless him for guiding me through my first step into the world of knowledge. My first school friends were Mehdi Raza Seehar and Shakir Hussain Seehar. (Continues)
Click here for Part-1,
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Abdullah Soomro, penname Abdullah Usman Morai, hailing from Moro town of Sindh, province of Pakistan, is based in Stockholm Sweden. Currently he is working as Groundwater Engineer in Stockholm Sweden. He did BE (Agriculture) from Sindh Agriculture University Tando Jam and MSc water systems technology from KTH Stockholm Sweden as well as MSc Management from Stockholm University. Beside this he also did masters in journalism and economics from Shah Abdul Latif University Khairpur Mirs, Sindh. He is author of a travelogue book named ‘Musafatoon’. His second book is in process. He writes articles from time to time. A frequent traveler, he also does podcast on YouTube with channel name: VASJE Podcast.
