India: Masan Holi in Varanasi

Instead of colored powders, ashes from cremation pyres are used in the celebration
The festival is believed to be a representation of detachment (vairagya) and the acceptance of mortality
By Debasree Chakraborti
Life is so strange, isn’t it? We come into this world empty-handed, yet as long as we live, we keep fighting for something or the other. But when the time comes to leave, we depart, leaving behind all that we earned through a lifetime of struggle.
This is why detachment is essential. Everything happens as a result of the laws of nature—everything else is just an illusion.
Crematorium – a word entwined with fear, sorrow, grief, and pain. The agony of bidding a final farewell to a loved one. Is it ever possible to celebrate a joyous festival like Holi in such a place?
The answer is undoubtedly yes. Because, in India, there exists a cremation ground where Holi is celebrated with great enthusiasm.
But not with just colors. Instead, human funeral ashes are used for this unique Holi celebration. Amidst burning pyres, Aghori and Aughar sadhus play Holi. However, they are not the only participants—tourists from across the country and even abroad visit to witness this extraordinary celebration.
This Holi festival takes place on Rangbhari Ekadashi at Manikarnika Ghat in Varanasi. Earlier, this unique Holi was only played at Manikarnika, but now it is also celebrated at Harishchandra Ghat.
Significance of Masaan Holi
It is closely associated with Lord Shiva, particularly in His form as Mahakal, the eternal time and destroyer of illusions.
The festival is believed to be a representation of detachment (vairagya) and the acceptance of mortality.
It aligns with the philosophy that everything in the material world is temporary (maya), and only Shiva and the soul are eternal.
The Aghori sadhus, known for their extreme ascetic practices, actively participate, smearing ashes on themselves and engaging in rituals.
Rituals and Celebration
Devotees, saints, and tourists gather at the cremation ghats.
Instead of colored powders, ashes from cremation pyres are used in the celebration.
The event includes chanting of Shiva mantras, bhajans, and dance, creating a surreal yet deeply spiritual atmosphere.
Why is it celebrated in a Cremation Ground?
In Hinduism, death is not the end but a transition, and Varanasi, particularly Manikarnika Ghat, is believed to grant moksha (liberation). By celebrating Holi amidst funeral pyres, devotees emphasize that life and death are two sides of the same reality, reinforcing the idea that all worldly attachments are temporary, but Shiva is eternal.
Only God is the ultimate truth; everything else is an illusion.
This ongoing process of creation is constantly being reduced to ashes, dissolving into eternity. Only Mahakal is eternal. Just as He is the creator of all, one day, we too must merge into Him. The body, along with all worldly possessions, will turn to ashes, but the Shiva-Shakti that resides within this body is indestructible.
Awaken it through consciousness, wisdom, and action. Shiva is the only truth—He is eternal. Everything else is mere ash, transient, and an illusion. Only God is everlasting and absolute; He alone will remain through endless ages.
This profound philosophy is what Masaan Holi seeks to convey.
Read: Happy Holi: A Splash of Colors, Culture, and Celebration
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Debasree Chakraborti is a renowned novel writer of Bengali language. Based in Kolkata, West Bengal, India, she has done Master’s in Modern History from the Kolkata University, and authored some thirty books, mostly the novels, with historical perspective and themes. Her novel is ‘Maharaja Dahir’ that covers the history of Sindh from 662, the year of first attack on Sindh by the Arab armies till date, was published last year and translated by Nasir Aijaz into Sindhi language.