The Sea, the Hills, and the Heart between Fog and Flowers
By Abdullah Usman Morai | Sweden
Exploring Sintra – The Red and Grey Palace in the Mist
Sintra had two hop-on-hop-off bus routes, each marked by a different color. I had bought a ticket valid until 5 PM, and for ease, I picked up a map to mark what I had seen.
First, I boarded the Red Line bus, and off we went!
Sintra is a magical town nestled in the foothills of the Sintra mountain range. I got off at the stop for Pena Palace.
By now, the rain had intensified. It truly felt like I was in Murree (a popular hill station in Pakistan)—tall trees, fog, and continuous rain. I purchased a ticket and walked ahead. There were tables and chairs with large umbrellas for shelter from rain and sun.
The red and grey façade of Pena Palace perched atop the hill looked absolutely majestic. The queue to enter was long, but I had only planned to view it from the outside.
A UNESCO Heritage Site – Pena Palace and its Enchanted Gardens
Said to be listed under UNESCO World Heritage, the 19th-century palace is said to be visible from Lisbon on a clear day.
The palace is built on the highest point of Sintra’s hills, surrounded by an enchanting forested park, which I intended to explore.
I had both a raincoat and an umbrella, but the walk was long and the rain persistent. The clouds and fog would occasionally envelop the palace in a magical embrace, giving brief glimpses of its beauty, as if the palace was shy to reveal itself.
After viewing the palace from outside, I proceeded into the enchanted garden.
Into the Enchanted Garden – A Fairytale Scene
The scene felt straight out of a fairytale film—with moss-covered stone walls, ancient trees shrouded in mist, and mystical ponds capturing the whole atmosphere.
I was in awe, unable to believe I was truly standing in such a magical place. Indeed, the Creator has painted this world in spectacular colors for us to witness.
In the ponds, ducks swam peacefully. As the rain joined the pond water, ripples formed, adding to the serene beauty. It felt like I was inside a scene from Alif Laila (1001 Nights).
Due to the rain, only a few scattered tourists were seen on this side of the garden. I wandered along various stone-paved mystical paths, climbing a hillock with a Christian cross mounted at its peak.
And the rain wouldn’t stop—it followed me loyally throughout.
Magic in Sintra – The Enchanted Palace and a Rainy Return
God’s Masterpiece: A City Like No Other
By the grace of the Almighty, what a marvelous city this was. In this town, tuk-tuks (auto-rickshaws) took full advantage of the pleasant weather, swiftly transporting tourists from one point to another. As I strolled along, completely absorbed in the surroundings, I suddenly stopped and exclaimed:
“Wow, SubhanAllah!”
Right before me stood the magical palace of Quinta da Regaleira – a structure so cinematic, it seemed straight out of a fantasy film.
Quinta da Regaleira – A Dreamlike Garden
I bought a ticket and stepped inside. The moment I entered, I felt as if I’d been transported into another world. I decided to explore the enchanting garden that surrounded the palace. The area was filled with tourists, all mesmerized by the natural beauty.
This palace, along with its gardens, is listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The garden boasted ponds, vines, trees, wells, fountains, towers, and pavilions – every spot felt like a place to lose yourself for a moment of peace. Near the palace, I spotted a small chapel, adding to the mystique.
While I was walking around, two girls approached me. One of them handed me her phone and asked if I could take their picture. I agreed, and in return, they took some photos of me as well. One of them seemed like a very skilled photographer.
They were from Ireland. I joked, “Standing in this garden and palace, one could almost mistake it for Ireland – your country is so beautiful.” They agreed with a smile. After some light-hearted conversation, we parted ways to continue our individual explorations.
The Initiation Well – A Descent into Mystery
I began searching for the Initiation Well (Poço Iniciático), and soon noticed a lady holding a map, looking just as lost as I was. We asked each other if we were searching for the same thing – and indeed, we were both trying to locate the mysterious well.
She introduced herself as Karen, from Minnesota, USA. Together, chatting as we walked, we finally arrived at the well.
The well features a spiraling staircase descending deep into the earth, surrounded by moss-covered stone walls. It felt surreal, like entering a sacred, hidden world. Historically, this well wasn’t used for water, but for ceremonial or mystical purposes – a kind of underground tower.
Karen and I took each other’s photos. As we descended, we saw caves extending under the hills with well-lit pathways. Eventually, the passage led to a magical waterfall, which cascaded into a small pond.
Only the area under the waterfall had clear water; the rest of the pond was covered in green moss, making it even more beautiful. A bridge crossed over the pond, where people could be seen peering down at us.
Interestingly, the paths did not connect – those on the bridge couldn’t reach the cave exit, and vice versa. There was a separate route for that. Karen and I bid farewell and resumed our individual journeys.
Exploring the Palace – Layer by Layer
Eventually, I returned to the palace itself, now ready to explore its interior. The palace consisted of five floors, and the paths inside were marked with ropes guiding visitors from one level to the next.
Inside was a souvenir shop, and I tried to absorb the history and beauty of the place while taking photos.
As I exited the palace and took some shots of its grand exterior, I saw the same two Irish girls again. I teased, “Now it’s your turn to take my pictures.”
One of them laughed and replied, “This time it’ll cost five euros!”
We all had a good laugh. I shot some photos of them and joked, “Now you owe me five euros.
They laughed, “You seem like quite the businessman!”
I replied, “Well, we Sindhis are businessmen wherever the need arises!”
Taking Shelter from the Rain
Tired from walking and with the rain now picking up, I found a seat near the palace’s cafeteria, under a large umbrella close to a fountain. I ordered tea and cake, and tried to relax.
As I sipped my tea, Karen passed by and waved from a distance. We greeted each other once again.
Rain Changes Plans – A Missed Castle Visit
Everything was damp and soaked. I had planned to visit Castelo dos Mouros (Moorish Castle), but the relentless rain forced me to skip it. Instead, I boarded a hop-on, hop-off bus, which dropped me at Sintra Railway Station.
From there, I took a train back to Lisbon, arriving in about half an hour. When I stepped out of Rossio Station, the rain was still pouring.
Lisbon Christmas Markets and a Rainy Walk
Wandering through the Rossio Square Christmas markets, I admired the festive spirit. The sight of Lisbon’s yellow trams glowing in the night inspired me to snap some more pictures.
From Martim Moniz Square, I headed to Bengali Street, where I was to meet Salman Bhai. There wasn’t much left to do that night except chat and share a meal.
We returned to the same Pakistani desi restaurant, where familiar faces were still present. While we were seated, another friend of Salman Bhai joined us – also named Salman – a popular YouTuber and Instagram influencer, who creates travel guides for people visiting Portugal.
Unexpected Fan Moments
After dinner, we headed to a small local tea shop. There, an Indian girl recognized the YouTuber Salman, took a selfie with him, and shared that his videos had boosted her confidence to travel.
Reflections on Bengali Street
I was struck by the atmosphere in Bengali Street. It seemed like a place where people lived in stress, uncertainty, and constant pressure. Anyone considering immigration to Portugal should come with eyes wide open and a well-thought-out plan.
Back Through the Storm – A Lonely Walk
Sipping tea, with rain still pouring, we walked to Martim Moniz Square. The YouTuber Salman took his leave, while Salman Bhai continued with me a little further.
The rain intensified. It felt as if a stream was flowing down the street. I said to Salman Bhai, “You should head back now. No need to suffer more on my behalf.”
So I walked alone through the storm, soaked to the bone. Even my umbrella and jacket surrendered to the downpour, as if they were saying, “Soomro, you’re on your own!”
Thankfully, the walk wasn’t too long. I reached the hotel and, in the bathroom, stuffed toilet paper into my shoes to absorb the water. I dried them using the hair dryer, hung up my soaked jacket, and hoped it would be wearable by morning.
The rain continued all night. Lisbon experienced urban flooding. I began to worry: what if my flight gets canceled?
The Journey Continues
Taking the Almighty’s name, I went to sleep. At 5 AM, I received a message from Jose, my taxi driver, saying he was on his way and would arrive at the scheduled time. The rain hadn’t stopped, but the journey had to go on. (Concludes)
________________
Abdullah Soomro, penname Abdullah Usman Morai, hailing from Moro town of Sindh, province of Pakistan, is based in Stockholm Sweden. Currently he is working as Groundwater Engineer in Stockholm Sweden. He did BE (Agriculture) from Sindh Agriculture University Tando Jam and MSc water systems technology from KTH Stockholm Sweden as well as MSc Management from Stockholm University. Beside this he also did masters in journalism and economics from Shah Abdul Latif University Khairpur Mirs, Sindh. He is author of a travelogue book named ‘Musafatoon’. His second book is in process. He writes articles from time to time. A frequent traveler, he also does podcast on YouTube with channel name: VASJE Podcast.
