Travelogue of three Balkan states – Albania, Kosovo, and North Macedonia
Albania is one of the Muslim-majority countries in Europe, with a significant population of Turkish descent
After a series of wars and conflicts, Yugoslavia disintegrated, giving birth to seven independent nations: Slovenia, Serbia, Croatia, Bosnia & Herzegovina, Montenegro, North Macedonia (formerly known as Macedonia), and Kosovo
By Abdullah Usman Morai
Since childhood, my elder brother, Muhammad Farooq, and I have had a deep fascination with maps and geography. We loved collecting and studying atlases, exploring different regions, countries, and continents. One of the books we cherished was the World Atlas, which is still kept in our study room in Moro. Over time, the maps in that book have become outdated as the political landscape of the world has evolved. New countries have emerged, and borders have changed.
One country that caught my attention in the atlas was Yugoslavia, then known as The Socialist Federal Republic of Yugoslavia. However, after a series of wars and conflicts, Yugoslavia disintegrated, giving birth to seven independent nations: Slovenia, Serbia, Croatia, Bosnia & Herzegovina, Montenegro, North Macedonia (formerly known as Macedonia), and Kosovo. By the grace of the Almighty, I had the opportunity to visit some of these newly formed countries, including Croatia, Bosnia & Herzegovina, and Montenegro. The Balkan region, apart from the above-mentioned nations, also includes Albania, Bulgaria, and Romania.
One country that particularly intrigued me was Albania. Upon researching, I learned that it is one of the Muslim-majority countries in Europe, with a significant population of Turkish descent. In November 2022, I once again set out to explore the Balkans, this time focusing on Albania, Kosovo, and North Macedonia. Before my trip, I gathered information about Albania’s capital, Tirana, and its surrounding areas from my Albanian colleague, Besmir. He provided valuable insights into local attractions, cultural nuances, and popular cuisines. He also mentioned that he would be in Albania during my visit and suggested I explore his hometown, Vlore, a beautiful coastal city along the Adriatic Sea.
On the night of November 6, 2022, I boarded a Wizz Air flight from Stockholm and arrived in Tirana late at night. For convenience, I had pre-booked both my hotel and a taxi. Upon arrival at Tirana International Airport, I met my driver, Aldo Nako, a young student pursuing his education in Tirana while working as a taxi driver to support his expenses. His fluency in English and hardworking nature gave me a positive first impression of Albanian youth. During our conversation, I requested him to pick me up for my return flight as well, to which he happily agreed. At around 2 AM, he dropped me off at Villa Ada Hotel on Sulejman Pitarka Street.
At the reception, there was no one present initially, but after a short wait, a middle-aged man appeared, rubbing his eyes, and after the necessary formalities, including copying my passport, he handed me the room key. That night in Tirana was my first experience in Albania. My room was equipped with all the essential amenities, except for a kettle, which I usually prefer for making tea. Nevertheless, I let it pass, knowing I had an eventful day ahead.
The next morning, I had booked a guided tour with a private company, Go As Locals, which included visits to Berat, Durrës, Krujë, and Tirana in Albania; Prizren and Pristina in Kosovo; and the historic town of Ohrid in North Macedonia, where I would explore Samuel’s Fortress, Ohrid Lake, and the Monastery of Saint Naum.
I had a simple breakfast at the hotel, which included limited portions of eggs, sausages, and other items served directly from the kitchen. This was an unfamiliar practice for me, but I assumed it was to prevent food wastage or perhaps a remnant of Albania’s communist past. While eating, I noticed sausages on my plate and instinctively looked around. The receptionist, understanding my hesitation, reassured me that they were halal. I smiled and thanked him, finding the sausages quite delicious.
Soon, I received a message from Andy, the young owner of Go As Locals, informing me that he had arrived near the hotel. I had already been in touch with him from Stockholm and was impressed by his company’s positive reviews on Google. When I stepped out, I was greeted by Andy, a cheerful young man wearing glasses. He welcomed me to Albania and inquired about my flight and hotel stay.
Our first destination was the historic city of Berat, famously known as The City of a Thousand Windows. Situated approximately 100 kilometers south of Tirana, the journey took us through a mix of hilly and straight roads. Along the way, I noticed numerous roadside stalls selling fresh fruits, vegetables, and even roasted corn cobs. The weather was clear, making the journey pleasant.
Andy first took me to Berat Castle, a 13th-century fortress located on a hill overlooking the city. As our vehicle moved along the cobbled roads leading to the castle, the rhythmic thumping of tires against the stones reminded me of the place’s ancient charm. Upon stepping out of the car, I felt a refreshing breeze—though it was November, the chill was mild, reminiscent of the early winter days in Sindh, a truly delightful sensation.
The pathways leading to the castle were paved with stone, with patches of wild grass sprouting between the cracks. Along the way, we saw old cannons placed at strategic points. There was also a detailed map of the castle, providing information for tourists. Though we visited during the day, the presence of strategically placed searchlights suggested that the castle was illuminated beautifully at night. This made me wonder about historic sites in Sindh, such as Ranikot or Umerkot, and how their beauty could be enhanced with similar lighting—although, given the electricity issues in Sindh, this might be wishful thinking.
Inside the castle stood the Red Mosque, an Ottoman-era minaret still standing tall. Several churches, traditional stone houses, and small souvenir shops were scattered throughout the premises. Some of these houses were still inhabited, with locals selling handmade carpets and crafts outside their homes. The castle also featured guesthouses where tourists could stay overnight.
From the top of the castle, the view of the surrounding mountains, with white clouds hovering above them, added a romantic touch to the scenery. As I walked, I noticed a cat sitting idly, but as soon as it saw us, it slowly got up and made its way to a stone staircase, settling on a patch of wild grass. In South Asia, stray animals are often shooed away or mistreated, but in Europe, they are generally unafraid of humans. However, in Berat, I sensed a similar wariness in the animals.
Looking down from the castle, the red-tiled roofs of Berat’s houses stretched across the landscape, intersected by the meandering Osum River. Other tourists, including a young couple—perhaps from Eastern Europe—were capturing picturesque moments. The girl posed while the boy clicked photos, reminding me of a Bollywood song, “Ban Gaya Kutta Dekho Ban Gaya Kutta.” The humorous thought made me smile, prompting Andy to ask what was amusing. I shared the joke with him, and he chuckled.
As I explored more of the castle, I found myself captivated by the serene atmosphere. Some spots were so peaceful that one could sit for hours, lost in thought, appreciating the world’s natural beauty. The Albanian flag waved proudly from the highest point of the fortress. Local women ran most of the souvenir shops, conducting business with confidence and independence.
The view of the nearby mountain, appearing like a fortress with natural stone pillars, further reinforced my belief in the Almighty’s artistry. Through one of the castle’s archways, I saw another archway in the distance, framing a lush green hill, the city of Berat, and the sky—almost like a perfect picture frame. This moment marked the beginning of an unforgettable journey through the Balkans.
We descended from the fortress and headed towards the city. Parking was free anywhere, so we parked the car and set out on foot to explore. Andy first took me to a small bakery-like shop and told me that one of the famous local sweets was sold there. We bought it and ate it—it was perhaps called Mont Blanc. Two young women were working there, and they spoke to me a little in English, asking who I was and where I was from. They were dressed in Western attire—pants and shirts—and ran their business very efficiently.
We continued walking. Andy was quite knowledgeable and explained many things to me. From the hills, many house windows could be seen, scattered across the landscape. As we strolled, Andy took me to an 18th-century Halveti Tekke, a Sufi monastery of the Halveti order. There was also a mosque built in the Ottoman architectural style, similar to the Badshahi Mosque. Inside, there was a room where, according to Andy, Sufi whirling ceremonies took place—perhaps similar to the ones performed at the shrine of Mawlana Jalaluddin Rumi in Konya, Turkey. The walls of the room had the 99 names of Allah inscribed on them, and the entrance door was small, seemingly designed so that anyone entering would have to bow their head in humility.
The entire building was made of stone bricks. The courtyard was also paved with stone bricks, with a well in the center and a pulley system for drawing water. Near the well stood a tree, which I imagined provided shade and a resting place for birds in the summer. Whoever had planted the tree and dug the well would surely be rewarded for their good deed. There also seemed to be a room housing some tombs, but its door was closed at that time.
We then returned to the Osum River, stood on the bridge for a while to admire the view, and then crossed to the other side of the city, from where Berat’s “thousand windows” could be seen. The houses on the hillside, with their numerous windows, attracted tourists’ attention. I thought they must look even more enchanting at night when lights shine through all those windows, but unfortunately, I did not have time to stay until nightfall this time. From this side, we could also see Berat Castle, which we had visited in the morning.
The mountain surrounding Berat is called Tomorr, named after a figure known as Tomorr Baba, mentioned in Albanian folklore and traditions. Today, followers of the Bektashi Sufi order associate him with Hazrat Abbas ibn Ali, while Christians regard the mountain as sacred, linking it to the Virgin Mary. Besides its religious significance, Mount Tomorr is also a major water source and a popular site for horse and donkey riding, skiing, and river rafting.
We wandered along the other side of the Osum River, where people sat outside shops chatting. The presence of flower pots and plants outside the houses suggested that the locals loved gardening. Eventually, we crossed another bridge over the Osum River and reached the parking lot where we had left our car. Our journey continued toward our next destination—Durrës, a famous coastal city in Albania.
On the way, I noticed that Andy was trying his best to provide me with as much information as possible about his country, as any good tour guide would. He told me that his tour company was still new and that he and his business partners were working hard to grow it. I encouraged him, telling him that if they continued their efforts, they would surely succeed.
We reached Durrës under the bright afternoon sun. Near the coast, I saw a monument of a soldier waving a weapon in the air, known as the “Resistance Monument.” We parked near it and set off on foot to explore. After crossing the road, we arrived at the ruins of the famous Roman amphitheater. There were not many tourists in Durrës at that time; it seemed that the city attracted more visitors in the summer, when people came to swim in the sea, sunbathe, and enjoy meals at the nearby restaurants. The area was lined with palm trees, and the cleanliness of the city was impressive. In the Adriatic Sea, boats could be seen in the distance.
We passed by Albanian College Durrës and walked along a rocky path until we reached the Roman amphitheater, which is said to have been the largest of its kind in the Balkans during the Roman era, with a seating capacity of 20,000 people. Although somewhat preserved, there was still much that could be done to restore and maintain this historical site.
Nearby, other historical landmarks included the 5th-century Durrës Castle with its Venetian Tower, the Byzantine Forum from the Byzantine era, and the medieval city walls—all visible along our route. We then headed to Shëtitorja Square, which was bustling with people. The city’s grand mosque was also located there, and we heard the call to prayer. A fountain, surrounded by palm trees, added to the beauty of the square.
Shops surrounded the square, and I asked Andy to take some photos of me. Several young people were gathered there—some with bicycles, and some girls with their hair let loose. Seeing them reminded me of the song “Tuhinja Waar Khulya, Haan Vaa Gheli Na Gheli” (“Your hair is open, now the wind may or may not blow”), and I smiled to myself. Andy must have wondered why I was smiling.
We then went to a café for tea. All the employees were young women. While we were there, a young girl from a Roma (Gypsy) community entered, probably asking for money. Roma people are often strikingly beautiful, especially the women. One of the café workers started chatting with her, and they talked the entire time we were there. I was touched by the kindness in their conversation.
On our way back, I curiously asked Andy what they had been discussing. He laughed and said the café worker had been asking the Roma girl why she hadn’t been around for a while, to which the girl replied that her parents had been sick, so she had been taking care of them. The café worker then asked if she was married, and the girl said she was still young and not thinking about marriage yet. I told Andy that I admired how Albanians treated beggars with kindness, which had deeply impressed me.
I imagined that the Roma girl, after receiving some money, would buy groceries for her home, where her elderly parents would be waiting for her. They would be happy to see her return safely, they would share a meal, talk about their day, and she would dream of her future wedding, picturing herself as a bride.
We then walked to the beach. Despite being November, the weather was warm. Many restaurants and bars were open, though there weren’t many people. The seating areas were well-arranged, with wooden decks, chairs, and small shelters providing shade. In one spot, a dog was resting under a shade. Andy told me that many Italian tourists visited Albania by sea, which made sense, as the Adriatic Sea separates Albania from Italy by only a short distance. (Continues)
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Abdullah Soomro, penname Abdullah Usman Morai, hailing from Moro town of Sindh, province of Pakistan, is based in Stockholm Sweden. Currently he is working as Groundwater Engineer in Stockholm Sweden. He did BE (Agriculture) from Sindh Agriculture University Tando Jam and MSc water systems technology from KTH Stockholm Sweden as well as MSc Management from Stockholm University. Beside this he also did masters in journalism and economics from Shah Abdul Latif University Khairpur Mirs, Sindh. He is author of a travelogue book named ‘Musafatoon’. His second book is in process. He writes articles from time to time. A frequent traveler, he also does podcast on YouTube with channel name: VASJE Podcast.
All photos provided by the author
