We thought the restaurant might be run by someone from Rawalpindi, Pakistan, but that wasn’t the case. It was owned by a Punjabi from Indian Punjab, though the food was essentially the same
By Abdullah Usman Morai | Sweden
Arrival in Kafka’s City: Prague at Dusk
We arrived in Prague, the city of the legendary writer Franz Kafka, just after sunset—there was still a faint glow in the sky. The bus dropped us near Prague’s railway station. From there, we took a taxi to our hotel, Machova, where we checked in and headed to our room.
After resting briefly and freshening up, we set out again, searching for a desi (South Asian) restaurant on Google. We found one nearby named “Pind”. Calculating the time, we realized it might close soon if we walked, so we hailed a taxi to get there.
A Surprise Encounter: A Taxi from Kosovo
Interestingly, the taxi driver was from Prizren, a city in Kosovo—a place I had visited once. When I told him I had toured his city, he smiled and asked, “Did you drink from the fountain in the central square?” We all laughed because I knew the local legend. When I had visited Kosovo on a day trip from Tirana, Albania, my tour guide in Prizren had told me of a popular saying: “Whoever drinks from this fountain will marry a beautiful girl from this city.” So yes, I was familiar with the tale, and we all shared a laugh.
The taxi driver made a cheeky comment about Albanians, saying they are “Muslims only in name and eat everything,” whereas “we take care of what is halal and haram.”
Pind: A Punjabi Welcome in Prague
When we arrived at Pind, the restaurant had just closed. But since we had made it there, the staff kindly welcomed us and said, “Come on in—we’ll serve you dinner.” We were delighted.
Imran and I initially thought the restaurant might be run by someone from Rawalpindi, Pakistan, because of the name, but that wasn’t the case. It was owned by a Punjabi from Indian Punjab, though the food was essentially the same, and it satisfied our hunger just as well.
An Evening in Prague: From City Streets to Castle Heights
A Lively Night Begins
After regaining our energy, we were not in favor of returning to the hotel. So, we left the restaurant and continued walking on foot. Soon, we found ourselves once again near Prague’s main railway station. A grand fair was taking place there. The building of the railway station was gleaming with lights, and the glow extended to the railway tracks, which sparkled in turn, creating a beautiful atmosphere.
Museums and the Grand Boulevard
Nearby was a large square with the New National Museum on one side and the Grand Museum on the other. In front of the Grand Museum was a charming fountain, and right across from it lay Wenceslas Square, a grand boulevard. Cars and people moved along its sides, but the central path was reserved for pedestrians. At the beginning of the street stood the statue of Saint Wenceslas.
We roamed through this lively street, exploring here and there. The place felt festive – it was a Saturday night, a weekend in Prague, and a large crowd was out and about.
Into the Narrow Alleys of Old Town
On our way back, we scanned various places to sit and rest. After crossing a couple of intersections, we entered Old Town Prague. The alleys were narrow in places, crowded with people coming and going.
Eventually, we reached the famous Old Town Square. The square was lined with cobblestones and surrounded by small shops and stalls. On this square were several historic landmarks:
- The Church of Our Lady before Týn
- The Astronomical Clock
- The memorial of Jan Hus
- The Prague Meridian
- The Marian Column
The square was full of people, clean to the point that the stone slabs seemed polished. Rickshaw cyclists were offering tourists short rides. Groups of youth were zooming past on big motorbikes.
The Clock That Slept at Midnight
We took a walk around the square and approached the Astronomical Clock, one of Prague’s most famous sights. This medieval astronomical clock, first installed in 1410, still works today. It features an astronomical dial indicating the position of the sun and moon, along with other celestial details. Statues of Catholic saints also adorn it.
Every hour, it performs a short animated show. We were there at midnight, along with many other tourists, waiting eagerly for it to strike and chime. But it didn’t. Perhaps it is turned off at night. As the bell didn’t ring, many tourists were disappointed and started dispersing. We too decided to come back another day.
Winding Down at Wenceslas Square
We moved on and eventually returned to Wenceslas Square, where we settled into a bar. A singer was performing live music, and the atmosphere was lively, with people slightly intoxicated from their drinks.
Some Ukrainian girls were working there, one of whom appeared to be a manager. After the war, many Ukrainians, especially women, have resettled across European countries, taking up jobs. Wherever they go, they quickly learn the local language and try to adapt to the environment.
We enjoyed the music and ambiance while sitting there. After spending about an hour, we left the bar and returned to the hotel, leaving the night’s hustle and bustle behind.
Exploring Prague Castle and a Hilltop View
A New Morning and Local Flavors
The next day began with fresh energy. After washing up, we headed to the breakfast area, where many hotel guests were already having their morning meal. We joined in. Most of the guests seemed to be Czech nationals. The environment was vibrant—traveling is loved by people of all ages, and even children, on school holidays, were traveling with their parents.
That day, we had planned to explore Prague throughout the day. After finishing breakfast quickly, we got ready and booked a Bolt taxi to head toward the Prague Castle.
A Taxi Mix-Up and Cityscapes
However, the taxi driver took the wrong route. We eventually asked him to stop and let us out. He did not understand English, so we left the cab and hailed another one.
The drive toward the castle offered stunning views:
- The Vltava River with its boats and small ships
- Prague’s picturesque hills and bridges
- Red-colored trams crossing over bridges
All of it created a truly captivating scene.
Walking Toward History
The second taxi also dropped us off quite far, so we began walking toward the castle. On the way, an Indian student stopped us and tried to tell us about hop-on-hop-off tour tickets. But we were not interested at the moment, so we told him we’d think about it later.
Walking through Prague’s charming old streets, it felt as if a spell had been cast over us. The cobbled paths, made of ancient stones, were enchanting. Slowly, taking in the atmosphere and catching our breath, we climbed up and reached Hradčany Square.
A Breathtaking View from Hradčany
From this elevated square, one can see Prague from a bird’s-eye view. What a sight! All around were rooftops—red, orange, and light green—tiled with weathered shingles, interspersed with lush green trees. In the distance, some of Prague’s major buildings were visible. On one side, a vast forest stretched across the hill.
The sky was overcast with clouds, but it wasn’t too hot. Standing on this hilltop, one could see not just Prague’s cityscape, but also many historical landmarks nearby, including:
- A statue of Tomáš Garrigue Masaryk
- The National Gallery
- The Marian Column adorned with religious statues
- Religious institutional buildings
Other statues were also visible, and the place was crowded.
Entering the Castle Grounds
We joined a queue to enter the castle complex. Outside the gate, we witnessed the changing of the guards. Soon, we entered the castle area through Matthias Gate, which leads to different courtyards and open spaces.
Inside, one can see:
- The St. Vitus Cathedral
- The darkened, almost scorched-looking Prague Castle buildings
- The Basilica of St. George
- Several palaces
We didn’t enter any specific building but wandered around, taking in the surroundings. The area was teeming with tourists, a proper rush. We spent about an hour exploring before heading back.
Descending the Cobblestone Path and Souvenir Stops
On our way back, we descended through the rocky, cobbled hill path and took a few rounds of the souvenir shops, picking up one or two small keepsakes to remember the trip.
A Charming Café: Kaferna
Feeling the need for tea or something to drink, we noticed a unique cafeteria called Kaferna, operated solely by Czech girls. As we stepped into its veranda, we saw large, open wooden cubicles built into the walls, each capable of seating two people—two stools or chairs with a small table between them.
Once the veranda ended, we entered a courtyard where a few young men and women were seated, enjoying their coffee and the relaxed atmosphere. We occupied a table in that courtyard, ordered tea, and continued chatting casually. The ambiance of the café was simple yet pleasant, as if we were sitting in someone’s home garden.
Farewell to the Castle: Malostranské náměstí Again
As with all things, our visit came to an end, and we continued walking, arriving once again at the Malostranské Náměstí Street, where a large religious tower stood, known as the Column of the Holy Trinity. Across from it, the Church of St. Nicholas was visible. However, we didn’t intend to go inside, so we admired it from the outside and moved along.
Bustling Malostranské Square
We now found ourselves in the heart of the city, at Malostranské Square, bustling with trams, buses, taxis, cyclists, and pedestrians—all part of one dynamic environment. There was a lot of activity and movement; trams, buses, cars, and people came and went from various directions. We explored a few more shops in the area.
Crossing the Charles Bridge
Eventually, we passed under an arched gate and stepped onto Prague’s famous Charles Bridge. It felt as if every tourist in Prague had gathered on this bridge—it was packed. A man had seated himself with two dogs, a donation box placed in front of them. Some street performers showcased tricks, others played music to attract attention, as if declaring, “I’ve tried every effort just to live.”
From the bridge, one could see other beautiful bridges of Prague stretching over the Vltava River. We strolled across the bridge and reached the other side of the Vltava.
Old Town Energy and the Astronomical Clock Show
After crossing the bridge, we arrived in the Old Town, which was just as lively and busy, filled with the clangs of trams, narrow streets, and thick crowds. Roaming around, we eventually arrived at the famous Astronomical Clock. Hundreds of people were already gathered, and we joined them just before one o’clock.
As the clock struck one, the bell rang, showing the positions of the sun and moon, while statues of Catholic saints appeared in rotation from small windows. People clapped, the spectacle ended, and the crowd dispersed into nearby bars and restaurants.
Desi Flavors in the Heart of Prague
The restaurants nearby were buzzing with lunchtime activity, reminding us we hadn’t eaten either. We searched on Google for a desi restaurant and found one close by.
We headed to the Golden Tikka Indian Restaurant on Konviktská Street, which was located a few steps below street level. Besides desi people, many foreigners were dining there too. The staff and waiters were all from India.
A young Indian boy who served us started chatting with us when he realized we were desi. Upon learning that we live in Sweden, he asked many questions about education, life, opportunities, jobs, and visas in Sweden.
We enjoyed our meal while chatting with him. He’d excuse himself for tasks and then return to continue the conversation. After finishing our lunch, we exited through a different route and returned to the riverside of the Vltava River, where we had booked a boat tour lasting about an hour.
Second Crossing of the Charles Bridge
To board the boat, we had to get to the other bank of the river, so we crossed the Charles Bridge once again. The bridge was just as vibrant, filled with beauty. The beauty of the people, the river, the city, the bridges—nature was putting on a show. We slowly made our way to the cruise and boarded, choosing seats on the upper deck.
Cruising the Vltava: History and Reflections
Our journey on the Vltava River began. There were many tourists aboard. As the boat cruised along, commentary provided information about the historical landmarks along the riverbanks.
In developed countries, rivers are major sources of transportation. Compared to the Indus River, the Vltava is much smaller, yet boats here create employment and tourism opportunities.
There are around 14 different boats and cruises run by various companies on the Vltava—some for regular trips, others for lunch or evening tours. It would be wonderful if we had something similar on the Indus back home. The boat passed under several bridges, and commentary included historical facts about each one. Occasionally, tourists standing on the bridges would wave joyfully to us below.
The sky had mostly cleared by then, and we could see the sun’s reflection shimmering on the river’s surface. We also caught a glimpse of the grand building of the Ministry of Industry and Trade from the boat. Once the cruise ended, we lingered by the riverside, strolling back and forth for a bit. After an eventful day, we returned to the hotel for a brief rest.
Sunset at Riegrovy Sady Park
As evening approached, we ventured once more into the streets of Prague, walking until we reached Riegrovy Sady Park, a well-known and popular park in the city. Established in 1902, it was named after Czech lawyer and politician František Ladislav Rieger.
In one corner, young people played football; elsewhere, people queued up for food, drinks, or just water. Most people were lounging on the park’s grassy slopes—some sitting, some lying down. The park, situated on slightly higher ground, offered elevated views of parts of Prague.
But what truly drew the crowds was the sunset.
It was a popular spot for watching the sun go down. Everyone had phones in hand, capturing the slow descent of the sun in photos and videos. As the sun hovered near the horizon, we decided to leave, passing by the railway station and eventually returning to Václavské náměstí Street. The sky still had a faint glow.
Final Evening in Prague
People of all ages sat on benches in pairs, enjoying the moment or simply passing the time. We didn’t need to go far, so we strolled for a while and eventually returned to the hotel after having a light dinner.
That was our final night in Prague on this trip. Our flight back to Stockholm was scheduled for the following evening. That night, Imran and I chatted about the entire journey until we slowly drifted off to sleep.
Departure Day and Final Reflections
In the morning, I didn’t have much to do, but Imran had plans to meet a friend in the city, so he left early. We agreed to meet later on Václavské náměstí so we could head to the airport together.
I took my time getting ready, had breakfast, checked out of the hotel, and began walking toward Václavské náměstí. The hustle and bustle there remained unchanged, crowded with tourists, just like the previous days. I browsed a few souvenir and gift shops and bought some items. I then grabbed tea from a nearby café and sat outside, enjoying both the tea and the atmosphere. It was a festival of beauty and charm.
After a while, Imran arrived, and together, we left that lively setting, took a taxi to the airport, and decided to have lunch there ahead of time.
With the grace of the Almighty, our journey concluded safely, and we returned to Stockholm from Prague. (Concludes)
Click here for Part-1, Part-2, Part-3, Part-4
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Abdullah Soomro, penname Abdullah Usman Morai, hailing from Moro town of Sindh, province of Pakistan, is based in Stockholm Sweden. Currently he is working as Groundwater Engineer in Stockholm Sweden. He did BE (Agriculture) from Sindh Agriculture University Tando Jam and MSc water systems technology from KTH Stockholm Sweden as well as MSc Management from Stockholm University. Beside this he also did masters in journalism and economics from Shah Abdul Latif University Khairpur Mirs, Sindh. He is author of a travelogue book named ‘Musafatoon’. His second book is in process. He writes articles from time to time.
